What to expect first start in 10 years.

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Robb2014

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According to the PO, this bike ran before it was put away and more or less abandoned... so I'm taking a lot for granted by not opening up the motor... but I figured I'd get everything else restored and hope for the best. For all indications, it should run. It's got good spark, good compression, carbs were redone... but I'm not sure what to expect on this first start up. Today I kicked it over a dozen times with the ignition and fuel off, then turned the fuel on, tickled the carbs, turned on the ignition and kicked it over again 8 or ten times with not even a pop. After another 5 or 6 kicks I got a loud smokey backfire into the air cleaner. Wasn't sure whether I should just keep kicking it or try to determine why it backfired. Even without running in ten years, shouldn't it at least be giving you some occasional firing after a few kicks? If I give it like ten or fifteen kicks and get only a single backfire, can I make the assumption that something is inherently wrong, or it just hasn't had a chance to wake up yet?
 
My guess will be the carbs.
Did you pull the plugs after kicking to see if wet indicating fuel getting in?
When you went through them there are some small holes that may have corroded shut so did you confirm all open with fine wire.
Confirm floats at correct levels.
 
It should start right up. After rebuilding my bike after 30 years, it started on the 3rd kick after I put a good battery on it. If the compression is good, the spark is good and the fuel is going in, it doesn't take much. Otherwise the timing is off or something's wrong.

What to expect first start in 10 years.


Dave
69S
 
If your using original mechanical points, Ill bet the timing is WAY off. Norton AAU do not have a slot and a peg like Triumphs do; so they are a little more difficult to install properly. If it has electonic ignition, I'll STILL bet the timing is off ... as it is still a PITA to get it mounted correctly on the cam. Just my 2 cents ... good luck.
 
If you woke up after ten years abandoned in the woods , you might be acting a bit odd too . . .

At least check the blankety points .

Usually youd tip a little oil in the cylinders and swing it through to lube the bores .
There may well be a bit of oil in the sump. Not a bad thing if its not gallons .
 
ive got a fastback that sat for 30 years with an occassional start so i had similar start issues problems once she arrived , i traced it to crook leads, bad battery and operator error [ no choke on when cold starting and she needs full choke ] :D
good luck
 
macca49 said:
ive got a fastback that sat for 30 years with an occassional start so i had similar start issues problems once she arrived , i traced it to crook leads, bad battery and operator error [ no choke on when cold starting and she needs full choke ] :D
good luck
Click to expand...

The backfiring makes me think timing but I didn't know it could go foul just by sitting. Of course, I really don't know the prior condition, only rumors. I have standard ignition. Will check timing tomorrow. So you're saying to use the choke for a cold start? Some of the guys are saying take it out and plug the hole.
 
Robb2014 said:
macca49 said:
ive got a fastback that sat for 30 years with an occassional start so i had similar start issues problems once she arrived , i traced it to crook leads, bad battery and operator error [ no choke on when cold starting and she needs full choke ] :D
good luck
Click to expand...

The backfiring makes me think timing but I didn't know it could go foul just by sitting. Of course, I really don't know the prior condition, only rumors. I have standard ignition. Will check timing tomorrow. So you're saying to use the choke for a cold start? Some of the guys are saying take it out and plug the hole.
Click to expand...

You don't note where you are in your personal info so if you are in any climate colder than tropical then don't expect the bike to start without choking it.
That's what they are for.
This is a big motor that gets a pretty limited turnover with a kick and you need all the help you can get.
 
A pig in the poke or how lucky do ya feel...

All the above, especially the pilot jet that crusts up with zine oxide just sitting plus new points condensors. Check valve lash is slack on the plug the is sparking as could be reversed. Advanced initial timing back fires through kick lever. Primary chain better flop almost to hit cases or may be too too tight once warmed up.
Expect gobs of smoke on rusted rings and soot and may be helped by <Bon Ami ring job> but best to spray in <water to decoke> first. A start after dark once started can be educational. Likely just one of many bad Earth connections and ignition bottle necks like key or kill terminals or ballast though. You will learn more than you ever thought you'd want to know about mechanics trying to attempt the highly respected status of a fully fettered Commando or at least one that road worthy. Just wait till oil leaks issue comes out after joyful noises gotten...
 
I'm a big fan of the power-arc ignition system from Fred & Ella over at Oldbritts. Everything you need is included in the kit (coil too), it simplifies the whole ignition system, and the timing is easy to set correctly while static. My bike had been sitting for some 20 odd years in the back of a damp garage up in Buffalo, NY. After towing it home, changing the oil, pulling the plugs and oiling the cylinders, and then draining the sump, I was comfortable kicking it thru repeatedly. Then I was able to determine that It had no spark, however my initial trouble shooting yielded no results. So I threw in the towel and forked over the money to Oldbritts and had the power-arc kit in a couple of days after that. After installation it started on the 3rd or 4th try. Just my 2 cents, Cj
 
acotrel said:
Have you changed the spark plugs yet ?
Click to expand...

Yes, it's got fresh plugs and is getting a good healthy spark. I'm going to check the timing this morning and will report back. Thanks for all your input.
 
Took right side cover off. Hooked up static tester to black white going to coil, the other to the far side of the points. Slowly rotated engine till light went out. Checked timing mark... is at like 36*. I'm assuming this has been my problem. How do I go about making this right?
 
macca49 said:
ive got a fastback that sat for 30 years with an occassional start so i had similar start issues problems once she arrived , i traced it to crook leads, bad battery and operator error [ no choke on when cold starting and she needs full choke ] :D
good luck
Click to expand...

I don't know if this is a typo... what are "crook leads"?
 
"crook" = Australian nomenclature for ill, broken or otherwise faulty eg, "You look a bit crook today Bruce, have the roos kicked down yer dunny again?" This translates roughly to "Bruce, my dear chap, you look rather distressed, have those large marsupials been damaging your external toilet facilities once again?"
 
What to expect first start in 10 years.


This is getting more confusing. Most timing window pics I've seen show 3 marks, like this one I ripped off another thread:

What to expect first start in 10 years.


The right side points are set at firing position. How far out of calibration is this, and is it far out enough to cause backfiring?
 
Rob, The lower photo is correct, the appropriate timing mark is in the middle of the slightly raised wedge on the rotor. I suggest that you pull the plugs and visually bring the pistons up to TDC, at which point the timing mark should be within reasonable proximity to the degree indicator tab. You can of course be more accurate in finding TDC with a dial guage, but even a pencil will give an approximate indication of where the piston is - keep a hold on it and don't break it off inside though. You would then have to have a look at one of the valve rockers to see which cylinder was on compression in order to set the points for the appropriate cylinder. Most Electronic ignition uses a 'lost spark' arrangement so it doesn't matter which is on compression from the point of setting the ignition timing. Do not assume that your rotor marks are correct, the same rotors were available with different key ways for different bikes, so unless you personally have seen this bike being timed with this rotor don't assume it to be correct. The woodruff key could also have fallen out during assembly and the rotor could then have moved out of position.
 
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