Well that won't work. Anyone have a ruler handy?

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well that won't work

79x100, no one seems to have noticed the JPN shift modification, thought about doing that one myself for the last 35 years or so, Lynxnsu must be rather talented from the look of the whole project.
Hmm... didn't notice that, but I did notice the additional isolastic at the bottom of the frame and the lack of a headsteady.

Nicely done!
there is a top isolastic Made an norvil one but got a DAVE TAYLOR one through 79x100
oiltank is indeed in frame with extension where the schock-gussets are so to hide them from vieuw.inside the main tube are baffels to prevent surging and to keep the return-pipe cental.Baffels are in ertalon to prevent rattling It keeps 2.6liter plus ENOUGH air on top VERY IMPORTANT
exhaust is a one off but is to be modified again(this is my third set).silencers are not silencing at all.
to fit the yokes you need bearingnr SKF 639174 These are a staight fit to frame and yokes but you do need to machine some bits and spacers but nothing radical
go ahead Teeb and keep us imformed about progress
next project is a rather different Duc with english frame,funny as my Commando has got an italian one...and then is a Model 88 1954 with iso-mounted 920commando hiding as a bog-standard Domminator.Something to surprise the japanese boys
A picture is worth...

a thousand words...
Very nice Lynxnsu.

I noticed the gearshift and the underside ISO. Also, the wee F05 caliper for the rear brake with the bar linkage.
You must like heavy tools, or know where to borrow them :wink: - that is a solid bar of aluminum you are using for wheel alignment?
(I have a lowly 2.5m piece of Bosch extrusion - don't ask me where I found it - it helps with home renos as well).

The steering stem should be easy to adapt as the Norton stem bearings are 6205.2RS (25mm*52mm*15mm) the stem O.D. is 25mm.
(I find it amusing that most Japanese bikes through the 70's and 80's - maybe even 90's - use about three different sizes of tapered stem bearings - but go figure that BMW uses sizes that are not 'common' and can't be sourced at local bearing shops - arrrrrggggghhh!).

Are you welding together sections of prebent pipe for the exhaust or having it made in one go at a exhaust shop? (or maybe a race car frame shop that has a proper pipe bender?)

<next project is a rather different Duc with english frame,funny as my Commando has got an italian one...but next is aModel99 1954 with iso-mounted 920commando hiding as a bog-standard Domminator.>

Please keep us up to date!

<Something to surprise the japanese boys>
Yeah, they can't quite come to make sense of it all - the exhaust racket, polished aluminum and exhaust fumes - and then you're gone....
and the wee Lucas taillight disappears..... :roll: (me bad, hehehe)

What are you using for electrics? I was thinking of a very small battery (to start ignition) with capacitior and relay (that connects power to small ignition battery once bike is running).

Have you done anything for the swingarm pivot? I have a design for a clamp similar to the Kegler fix, but you don't need to drill holes.
The I.D. of the clamping ring is not round so that when it clamps the tube it will force it into a 'triangle' shape, thus firmly clamping the pivot pin in all directions, but no holes are drilled, etc. I have drawings, let me know.
there is a top isolastic Made an norvil one but got a DAVE TAYLOR one through 79x100 That is the only bit not made nor modified by myself because there is nothing to improve on it....

Regarding the Dave Taylor headsteady. It appears to me that the clamp can rotate about the small frame tube. Am I missing something? It seems like an improvement would be to pin or somehow fix that clamp to the tube.
the trouble is that there are two types of tubing if your clamp can rotate than that means you probably have an italian frame also I fixed that temporarly by putting a bit off feelergauge between tube and clamp it works but is no real solution I plan to make my own clamp 79x100 could answer this better
if your clamp is loose than obviously the head steady does not do its job at all
Ron, the Taylor headsteady clamp fits very firmly to the tube of my Andover repro (Imperial) frame. Do you think that a well-fitting clamp fastened on both sides like this would be receiving sufficient loads via the tie rod to turn it ?

It seems to me that it applies considerable clamping force to the tube. The principle of clamping a tube doesn't give any problems on the fork yokes. I can understand that subsequently pinning it could be considered to give a more positive location but I have detected no evidence of movement on mine (I haven't off-roaded it though !)

I think that the clamp is used because of the small differences in frame and engine location and it is very important that the steady is set up in a 'neutral' position with the bike off the mainstand. It took me several goes before I was happy with it - not that it's difficult, just that it needs "offering-up" to check each time.

It is obviously possible to fabricate a fixture which removes the possibility of turning altogether but it would have to line up exactly and if this system works then I prefer just to have to slacken two screws rather than cut and weld each time (Yep, I'm lazy :) )
The Taylor Head Steady

The other way to mount an arm with rod ends would be to clamp the frame tube and bolt it solid using the old threaded bolt holes for the old isolastic. This would prevent all movement of the upper bracket - this is how I made my original head steady with rod ends.
However, I also had to shim it so that the rod was perpendicular to the frame (off the centerstand and me on the bike). The rod needs to be set up perpendicular to work the best.
Some one else has posted pictures of this set up (Dave Comeau or Old Britts maybe) where the brackets are made from some pieces of angle iron, etc.
(Sorry if I spelled your name wrong Dave - I'm on my break at work :) )

I think the idea behind the Taylor Head Steady is that it eliminates shimming. The tube clamp can be adjusted forward/back and by rotating up/down to get the rod part perpendicular. As 79x100 wrote, triple clamps work this way, so as long as the clamp 'matches' your frame tube it'll work (it'll be loose on the Italian frames with their 25mm tubing).

Should work a treat - I'm going to try these out at all 3 ISO locations and I won't need to weld threaded posts, etc. onto my frame :wink: .

Oddly I now remember seeing a Notrun race bike at Mid-O-Hi-O Vintage Days with this same set up at each ISO location. I should have stopped to chat with the fellow! :roll:

Be Young, Have Fun,
I also looked at the dave taylor and did not like the way it attatched at the frame or the tall standoff on the head mount. I have made several of my own and for other people. I also have one that is a bolt on for the front mount but have not done a rear yet. my head steady uses the original holes in the frame with a one peice milled alu. bracket and a milled bracket for the head. the front settup is clamped at both down tubes with a bar welded between the clamps, apiece bolted at the top left engine iso mount and a rod running from it to the other side of the clamps on the frame.

windy [/img]
jim im in tn. right now, stuck with a slow dial up connection and have no way to post a pic. but if you will send me an email i will try to send a pic. of either one or both.

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