Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom end

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Well, I took my bottom end into the shop today and found out that the cam is shot. Oh well let the adventures continue. Not the end of the world, I was just hoping to not have to do it. I will post some pic's of the cam once I have it pulled out.
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

Was this a bike you bought recently that had been sitting?
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

Ugh, but just think how the next generation will thank you for your efforts now, not that you won't get good use out of it too. Inspect to the Nth degree the stress riser corners of machined flats for case clamp/mount bolts for the thinnest fine dark web lines you can see. Check crank for straightness, they can be corrected pretty cheap. Remember all the tales of fine fins being knocked off in one instant of neglect, ping....
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

All those little cam lobe bits floating about in the oil ,settling into the crank sludge trap and bottom of oil tank sludge.How fun !
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

If you are having to dismantle it that far, I would suggesting marking the left and right side of the crank for identification and then dismantling it and cleaning out the sludge trap.
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

Clean the Sludge Trap is ancient Brit Iron motto.
Don't bother marking the crank checks, can't mix them up, mark the flywheel as that looks the same otherwise but may only mate well now one way. Also mark rods and push rods and lifters. Actually better to put in marked containers as marks tend to disapear.
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

It is good practice to mark the flywheel position in relation to the left and right cheeks, the assembly is basically mechanically symmetrical, however if it is reassembled incorrectly the existing crank shaft balance will be lost, possibly with unpleasant results.
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

Sludge trap only if there was no oil filter used. That's my theory.
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

Nope oil filter helps but does not eliminate the sludge accumulating, must to my disappointment checking that deep inside after 30 year sans oil filter and 30 wks with filtering. 1/3 the sludge reappeared. Solvents take a long long time and lot and lots of flow to loosen it up w/o physical removal.
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

Great time for a 920 kit? Or are those a no no now?
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

No 920 kit for me.

I'm going to keep the original 850 as much as I can. It's not the end of the world that I have to tear it down and you guys are right that the next owner in the future will be thankful for my hard work. I don't want to do anything half fast on this so that is how I'm treating this. I'm very luck that the shop here is very helpful and easy for me to get to and they usually have any parts that I need in stock. I cannot get the new cam until the first week of June, but that will give me ample time to finish cleaning out the bottom end and looking for any other demons that may be lurking down there. There is also a little bit of welding removal needed on the frame that I will have to wait until June to get fixed as well as the mechanic is gone on holidays for the month of May.

Oh ya and the gearbox was full of water so that is going to take some time to inspect and rebuild so I don't have a lot of time to waste until the shop can do my work! But it was nice and clean water!!! Ha ha :cry:
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

Love your attitude. Getting a fully fettered Commando done right is part of my maturing process and metal heath tests.

Its actually easy and fun to remove excess weld bead, as long as not removing the structural part if that's still important in the area. Smaller power tools are easiest if longer but reduces the danger a slip takes a notch out of thin frame tubes.
After I get most the ughly off I fill with bondo or JBWeld and grind sand some more to look good and paint over.

Water in tranny mostly effects stuff above oil in the outer case shift gizmos and fasteners. Not a bad idea after renewal to paint them to preserve them or eats up threads and takes the spring out of springs like the pawl pivot spring.
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

The H2O in the transmission probably explains why it was not shifting very well. Seems like I could only find neutral and first. Nothing else. Maybe there is something else there to discover.
 
Re: Well looks like I'm going to be tearing into the bottom

No water works a treat in trannies and for other oil fluids as long as don't hit boiling temps and rust not an issue. Suspect clothes pin pawl spring rust and worn=rusted dog faces and crud in the worn bush spaces.
 
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