Warning light simulator
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Deets55
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Piero,
If you find that the assimilator has failed again try one of these. I have mine for three years and no problem. They come either positive or negative ground.
http://www.coolcatcorp.com/Merchant5/me ... y_Code=OBM
If you choose to go with a voltage monitor I'm sure you will get feedback from other members.
Pete
If you find that the assimilator has failed again try one of these. I have mine for three years and no problem. They come either positive or negative ground.
http://www.coolcatcorp.com/Merchant5/me ... y_Code=OBM
If you choose to go with a voltage monitor I'm sure you will get feedback from other members.
Pete
Onder
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Hi Piero, this is what I did. use-20b-relay-instead-the-assimilator-t19684.html?hilit=warning%20light
I cant explain why it works but it does, cost me $5.00 NZ instead of $65.00 for the geniune type assimilator. Why waste money one the real thing when you can spend it on your 850.
Dereck
I cant explain why it works but it does, cost me $5.00 NZ instead of $65.00 for the geniune type assimilator. Why waste money one the real thing when you can spend it on your 850.
Dereck
Fast Eddie
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Why not fit a 'Battery Status Monitor' instead?
Simple to wire in, will fit in stock position (I think) lots more information provided by it, no assimilator required.
About half way ish down this page:
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyelectrex.htm
Simple to wire in, will fit in stock position (I think) lots more information provided by it, no assimilator required.
About half way ish down this page:
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyelectrex.htm
Since the stock setup doesn't seem to provide any more information than AC voltage is being generated I installed one of these:
http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright ... onitor.php
So far 100% reliable, provides way more information, is much cheaper.
http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright ... onitor.php
So far 100% reliable, provides way more information, is much cheaper.
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Hi Piero,
The easy way to see if the stator is making "power" is to get a "multimeter" and set it to volts (set on direct current) across the battery terminals, start the engine and the volts should initially be approximately 12.7 volts whilst the engine is on tickover, and as you slowly rev the engine up to 3,000 to 4,000 revs, the voltage should increase to about 13.5 to 13.8 volts. When the engine is returned to tickover, the voltage will again drop to about 12.7 volts.
If this happens, then your battery is being charged and this shows that the stator is working correctly.
The easy way to see if the stator is making "power" is to get a "multimeter" and set it to volts (set on direct current) across the battery terminals, start the engine and the volts should initially be approximately 12.7 volts whilst the engine is on tickover, and as you slowly rev the engine up to 3,000 to 4,000 revs, the voltage should increase to about 13.5 to 13.8 volts. When the engine is returned to tickover, the voltage will again drop to about 12.7 volts.
If this happens, then your battery is being charged and this shows that the stator is working correctly.
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pierodn said:
Its a standard 5 pin automotive relay. Has the power off and power on positions. Just wire it up so the power on goes to the warning light. The warning light itself serves no function in the charging circuit, except light up when its not charging by way of the assimilator, the relay mentioned or any of the other methods mentionned above,,.
And automotive charging systems can charge up to 14.5 volts and still be working fine.
Dereck
Madnorton said:
If you're referring to my reply then I believe it should be AC. The assimilator provides a ground (earth) to the warning light in the absence of AC voltage from the stator. That's not a lot of useful information hence my preference for the voltage monitor which looks at the DC voltage, the one the bike runs on, charges the battery, etc, and gives useful information about that.
Got it now, reminds of the days of the AVO moving coil meters. Just get so used to selecting it in one go with the DVM these days. As for the assimilator there are better alternatives BSM's that actually indicate what is happen with your Volts direct current and thus the system is actually charging and not just telling you the alternator is rotating.
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