vernier isolastics

this winter i'm planning on installing vernier isolastics in my '72'. i see a lot of people sell them. are they different from mfg. to mfg. quality, performance, or ease of installation wise? i know the front is easy but what else should i tackle while i'm in the rear? thanks, rick

I got the threaded ISO adjusters from Mick Hemmings.
Good time to replace the rubbers and "thrust" washers since you will have the main stud out anyway.

Three weeks ago I did a total rebuild on both front and rear, cleaned the cradles good, slathered everything up with silicone lube
you will need to release the headsteady so the motor can move up and down, a small jack to move it,
and an assistant to put things in place while you muscle the motor over to the sides
took me about three hours for the rebuilds, front removed, rear iso all done within the frame
there is a written procedure provided about a month ago on an iso thread
any questions let us know!

I don't know how many manufacturers of verniers there are. I've never seen a comparison of the different vendors' offerings, other than some include new washers and end caps and some don't. If they all come from the same manufacturer it doesn't matter who you buy from. I hope someone here can shed light on that.

That said, I got mine from a reputable eBay guy and the quality is good. I had the engine out anyway so I took the opportunity to replace both isos. The end result is that I wish I hadn't. I have not been able to dial them in to the same vibration characteristics that I had with the stock setup. It's acceptable but buzzy. If I had to do it over I'd replace the rear rubbers with "soft" ones and only do the vernier on the front. JMO.

If cost was a consideration, would do just the opposite. The rear is a bear to shim, so I want vernier adjustment there. The front Iso can be popped off, carried over to the vice, disassembled, cleaned and shimmed in no-time.

I believe the Hemmings adjusters don't require replacing the rubbers, so you could use your rubbers or replace with original type rubbers and still get vernier adjustment.

The rear is a bear to shim, but even worse to revert back to stock. The fronts are easily replaceable as you say, so if you don't like the results you can always swap them out. The buzzing that I have is in the under 3000 range, which is rear isolastic control. It's gonna stay that way 'cuz I'm NOT taking the engine out again to experiment.