Valve guide replacement

On the initial start ups after a re-build, there is far to much oil out the back, evidently getting into cylinders and exhaust port. I've started, re-torqued, road tested, re-torqued and still; excessive oil escaping from the head/cylinder interface and/or into the exhaust ports. Inside the head is heavily carbonized and thick oil residue inside exhaust ports.

I'm trying to determine the next steps. Get the head completely re-built is perhaps the best option (open to suggestions here) but I've read in this forum that valve seals are used on some machines; mine is a '71 Commando and these items do not appear on the parts list.

I'm wondering if the valve guides have become worn but I cannot find data on amount of acceptable play on the valve stems to indicate replacement is necessary.

Other potential issues; the oil feed tube to the head is 1/4" ID which may be a bit large and thus supplying too much oil to the top?
Washers used on the head bolts appear badly deformed on disassembly possibly resulting in insufficient torque?

Lastly; copper of Flamering?

Hoping it isn't crack related. Getting frustrated at this point. Damn thing should be on the road by now.

Thoughts appreciated.

BC

According to OldBritts site the exploded view of head for 71 shows valves seals on the intake valves. Part #062726
If you haven't got these seals you will get oil burning since on the intake valves you have high negative pressure.

I think the Flame Ring haed gasket is more willing to adjust to any out of flatness of the head/barrel interface but is capable of really blowing out and needs to be re-torqued after initial running.
Cooper will not blow out but can leak since it isn't as flexible to fit head/barrel interface. Coppercoat paint used to help. There are threads on head gaskets that have more info and opinions.

Sounds like the inlet guides to me, what ever, the head needs to be lifted ..then do the checks. I would fit valve seals and check the oil return hole is clear,a bit of cover gasket sealent can soon block it.
You can remove the inlet cover and start the bike, watch if the oil drains away before head removal...you never know your luck.

Thanks all. I missed the inlet valve seal (damn). With the head pulled, I'm going to get the seats and guides done. Comes down to timing and cost. Thanks again.

BC

Stillreel it's time to pull the head and get it into a competent shop ,give them the new seals too. Seeing as you reside in T.O. ,I have used Gord Bush Performance in the past.7650 Kimbel St. # 33. 905 677 8657. Make sure HE does the work as students go through the place (learning), from my experience. Lemme know,Peter.

It is possible to replace the seals with the head in place:

valve-seal-replacing-t7362.html

I used a rope to hold the valves shut (also have heard of people using compressed air), but other than that went by Ludwig's process.

Cheers,

- HJ