these relays are easy to install, [ with a couple of extra wires and a little brainpower ] and maybe $5-$8 each instead of the ign warning light assimilator. Less complicated and will probably out last us.
Yep that's how I did Peel with relay so nil current needed through resistance of key switch and speed shift kill button. My other ordinary Combat had loom simplified-bastardized before me w/o the voltage indicator installed so used color change VOM LED in the same shell hole. A bit ambivalent on the bastardized loom as it eliminated much of the police clutter and useless turn signals but not all the colors match with manual any more and had to bypass the key switch light functions for more direct on'off in shell.
Hi Steve, I haven't yet gone to the trouble of using a relay in the ignition circuit, but may have to one day. just the 2 relays in the head lamp and the 5pins in place of that expensive assimilator. Funny though, I didn't even consider using the assimilator in the first place because I live so far away from suppliers, and it just happened I had that relay left over from my auto repair business. One day I will put a horn relay in as I run 2 horns on the 850 now. tHE SECOND ONE HAS BEEN FITTED BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL IS A WE BIT TOO HARD TO GET TO. I CAN KICK THE ONE BY THE BATTERY MORE EASILY IF IT DECIDES TO NOT WORK..
Your joking. I will find out, or work it out. Cant be bothered taking tank off yet, but I can see the joining wire goes between the bottom 2 terminals [ just looked at the bike ]. Be warned, its not supposed to be able to work and I have studied the circuitry and cant figure it myself. You don't need it to run the bike though as it is just to indicate that the charging system is making electricity, yet it plays no part in the charging circuit.
I just googled 5 pin relay. Now I'm stuffed because I cant remember whether it was an "a" or a "b" relay.
Now lets think about this. When ign is on and engine is not running you want current to flow from battery to warning light, so you want current to pass from the 30 to the 87a terminal. in order for this to happen, you don't want a power differential between the 85 an 86 terminal or it will activate the solenoid and remove power from the 87a terminal and pass it to the 87 terminal. [ brain has gone ,. will be back soon ] deets is correct. 30 joined to 86 and grounded to red wires. white to 87a and green/white to 85. Hope it works for you.
Dereck
If the relay is only turning on the charge light on the dash when you turn the key then I don't need the pin #'s. If the light goes out your dead on the side of the road anyway ,,,, Thanks anyway......
If the relay is only turning on the charge light on the dash when you turn the key then I don't need the pin #'s. If the light goes out your dead on the side of the road anyway ,,,, Thanks anyway......
Not necessarily true. 20 months ago when I went to start my bike before getting on the ferry. The ign light did no come on. It was usually just the fuse needed cleaning, but not this time. In the end I just kecked the bike over in frustration and it went. I rode it to the Collingwood rally and had no troubles till I got back to my cousins place in Havelock, where it would not start prior to going to the ferry. That problem turned out to be the breaking wire at the Boyer terminal inside the timing cover . When I got back to Kerikeri I studied the wiring diagram and discovered the warning light played no part in the charging system so that's when I looked at the alternative. This story has been told before.
Dereck
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