Untradtional Winter oil heating thread

[Hobot]

Un-tradtional Winter oil heating thread
Pick a letter ya think can improve on to get hobot fireplace fed.

A. What are the conditions that ZAPP matters, that is actually deposits protective layer.

B. What is worse thing to do on cold starts and why?

C. What is best lube to protect again swing arm spindle rust.
What and why any other reasons for hardened spindle in pourous sintered bronze bushes?

D. How long does it take to get head oil pressure at 1000 rpm vs 2000 on cold starts?

E. Is there oil surfing at cam at 1000 rpm or just whipping off ZADP nano pads before getting to surf level rpm?

F. How long can Norton head run w/o oil before concen?

G. Is changing oil filters with oil change logical?

H. Is changing oil too soon a bad practice?

I. Where is oil cooler most effective?

J. Why no one but Mz Peel using bypass low mu filter after 1st run in on ordinary filter only meant to catch stuff big enough to clog passages but nil filtering of wear significant particles?

 

[rvich]

I put a 25-watt transmission heater on my oil tank to heat my oil in the winter. Mostly cuz I think warm oil will get to the head faster and have a better chance of helping out my engine. I suspect that doesn't answer your question(s).

My oil never gets up to proper operating temp. I don't know if I should care beyond wanting to drive the water out, which the heating pad helps with!

Oh-oh and the best swing arm lube. Amber Oil! Just ask Jim. I just drink the kool-aid.

 

[texasSlick]

Un-tradtional Winter oil heating thread
Pick a letter ya think can improve on to get hobot fireplace fed.

Ans: K. Bring chainsaw into warm house 12 hours before crank up on frosty morning to cut wood.

Slick

 

[concours]

Ans: K. Bring chainsaw into warm house 12 hours before crank up on frosty morning to cut wood.

Slick

Pull the Husky/Jonsered out of the pickup bed at -20F, choke it & go cut wood. 2, maybe 3 pulls max. If it doesn't there is something wrong with the saw.
As for Cdo, 20-50 oil in the cold season, tickle plenty, chokes on, first kick fire up down to 30F.

 

[1up3down]

J. Why no one but Mz Peel using bypass low mu filter after 1st run in on ordinary filter only meant to catch stuff big enough to clog passages but nil filtering of wear significant particles?
========================================


1) how do you know no one but Mrs Peel uses?

2) No one cares

 

[Nater_Potater]

J. Why no one but Mz Peel using bypass low mu filter after 1st run in on ordinary filter only meant to catch stuff big enough to clog passages but nil filtering of wear significant particles?

I believe Comnoz runs one on his. https://www.accessnorton.com/Norton...-of-view-on-oils-ect.21474/page-7#post-320662 In fact, this entire thread addresses a number of issues you bring up.

Nathan

 

[Danno]

I park a little oil radiator next to the oil tank side of whichever Norton I want to be ready to fire. sure helps ease kickover stiffness when the oil is a little warmer than the ambient (cold!) temp.

 

[concours]

I park a little oil radiator next to the oil tank side of whichever Norton I want to be ready to fire. sure helps ease kickover stiffness when the oil is a little warmer than the ambient (cold!) temp.

Just a little more info on that.... the oil in the tank (or crankcase in a car) has nothing to do with ease (or lack thereof) cranking. Rather, it's the PISTONS with their significant surface area and smallish clearance SLIDING in the bore. (rods, cams too, rotating, but only a tiny amount)
Put a heat gun on a milk crate pointed at the barrels for 10 mins.....

Heating the oil in the tank/oil pan allows it to PUMP easier, but that isn't what makes it harder to kick/starter turn when cold.

 

[concours]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...r+heat+gun&dpPl=1&dpID=41bPyxD6-GL&ref=plSrch

 

[Craig]

Or keep bikes in heated shed at 15C seems almost like another season inside.... worked cutting pulp and saw logs more winters than I like to remember , always hid saw in brush pile or hole to save from lugging in and out..... it gets very cold here especially overnight , after 2 pulls and no joy , take plug out and heat with bic lighter , never fail ... saw a fellow chop a Honda 5hp engine out of overnight ice and free up pull cord and exhaust started right up mounted on Christmas Tree baler ...
Craig

 

[Danno]

Just a little more info on that.... the oil in the tank (or crankcase in a car) has nothing to do with ease (or lack thereof) cranking. Rather, it's the PISTONS with their significant surface area and smallish clearance SLIDING in the bore. (rods, cams too, rotating, but only a tiny amount)
Put a heat gun on a milk crate pointed at the barrels for 10 mins.....

Heating the oil in the tank/oil pan allows it to PUMP easier, but that isn't what makes it harder to kick/starter turn when cold.

I don't use a tank heater, My little oil heater does tend to warm the whole machine when I tent a cover over it.

I guess I should have said oil-filled heater. Looks like an old steam radiator.

 

[xbacksideslider]

Move to a warmer place?

 

[Fast Eddie]

Don’t ride it in the cold...?

 

[Brooking 850]

Hobot will answer all questions for you , just a matter of time.

 

[Hobot]

rvich of course warm oil & flows faster to pressure cold starts. No controversy.

Texslick, I don't even bring my pants/chaps inside home after smoky oily sawing, knowing too much about organic hydrocarbon in air. A saw should start as long as warm enough fuel still flows and often needed in worse cold to clear tree falls and collect firewood. No controversy saws don't emit much if not hot. A Commando in teen's F oil is so thick its hard to keep running till a handful of stalling intervals. Fuel ok as started pretty quickly each time.

Nater will check comnoz review later to check dates, he rer-outed oil coolers to head and plumbed in bypass after hobot hints reported. Bypass is over kill on Commandos make to run w/o them and reg filters don't do much after 1st run in but increase oil volume. Bypass in size practical for small motorcycle spaces is hard to find so hope comnoz mentions what he used. I've seen inside very used and very new cranks with filters and 1000 syn oil changes, to see similar nano dust accumulation in just a few seasons/10,000ish miles. Seems it sling and oil flow settle it out in more streamlined shape distinctly leaving open path to the journals. Almost same as I see roads wash out, sluggish flow areas filled in but the main channel flows too good.
Controversy: hobot says reg filters are a negative for extra clutter and mass, leaks and false sense of security so suggest looking into fine HD filters. Mz Peel gets cellulose 10 mu element in Peterson 600 canister in head supply hung under seat area. Might works as wet sump valve too.
http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter_600.html

Cornhead grease for tractors and swingarms is my long term simple answer.

Off to motorsports on tractor with radiator covered, more letters to burn. chow.

 

[Nater_Potater]

Jim makes mention in that link about a half-toilet-paper-roll, and a 0.5mm diameter bypass off of the head oil feed line. Where he gets the half-pint filter housing from is a question still unanswered. Jim, 'you out there?

 

[concours]

I run these on my TDI's, very compact

http://ecomicrofilters.com/eps-20-std.html

 

[concours]

I don't use a tank heater, My little oil heater does tend to warm the whole machine when I tent a cover over it.

I guess I should have said oil-filled heater. Looks like an old steam radiator.

I knew the heater you were referring to, and you mentioned "oil tank SIDE", figgered the whole thing got warmed.
But, for the benefit of others trying to heat engines, I saw it as an opportunity to dispel some age old mythage. As an example, when VW did away with frost plugs on the engine block of the little TDI diesel engine, there was no great place to put a block heater, where many engines have used it for a long time. Instead they (VW) offered a heating pad, that glued to (high temp RTV) the bottom of the oil pan. It was a miserable failure. At artic temps it did little to ease starting. The answer was to use a tank type coolant heater, it worked great. The point being, the coolant heats the CYLINDERS, where the lion's share of cold oil resistance is reduced. Very effective. Warming the oil? Not so much..

 

[Hobot]

Good on you concours thinking long hobot lines, just too ugly utilitarian to please Peel but quite acceptable to me on stock-ish Cdo's like my Trixie so may follow your lead 'her'. Nater-comnoz toil paper pointer is a insight I will steal - instead of 10 mu cellulose can get ~1 mu by stuffing Peterson canister full of my left overs. No Contraversy to me as best way to filter. Note bypass restriction don't pass full oil volume only small part of it so toilet paper best not be in main oil paths so perfect to head supply.

Concours gets 2nd nod by displaying the single most useful tool there is, a hair dryer. Its common practice in Ozarks to use to get exposed pipes flowing again but that's rather rare use compared to the time a handly man with a Commando uses hair dryer.

Still letters hot potato letters left to heat up on. Hints of snide attitudes gave me unexpected warm sense inside to made me feel more at home again here. I'd expect A. facts of solid state condensed physical chemistry quizz to be the most controversial as goes against the common wisdom/practice of Commando operation of treating Cdo's like women do kittens or human infants.

ZDDP wasn't introduced till 1980's and now eliminated from automobile oils. Its really about phosphorous electron shell activation energies precipitating zinc pads and tender loving easy operation nullifies protection. When enjoying P!! dragster domination - also wore penny loafers, polyesters clothes with slide rule in hard case belt holster + shirt pocket pouch full of various color pens pencils to plot growth curves of microbes and bonding angles/energies of quantum level relativistic equations, so ignore me obvious ignorance at own risk.