Trident Hunter, latest rearset iteration...

I have honestly forgotten how many iterations of rear sets I’ve been through! Without doubt, IMHO Matt and Kenny between them offer the best out there.

However, Matt’s require a reversed lever and I want a linkage. Matt’s are also a bit ’proper racer’ in terms of position, which I no longer found the most comfortable.

So... I put the ‘standard’ cNw z plates back on and used the NYC levers. With a lot of faffing around, some new adapter plates, spacers and linkage rods, I now have my latest iteration.

The pegs are around 2” forward and 1+” lower than before, that might not sound much, but it makes quite a difference to the comfort. But this set up is really only possible sans kickstart lever. My next job is to remove the gearbox cover and make up a spacer to remove the unused kickstart shaft.

All in all, I’m well chuffed.

Oh, and some might notice the return to peashooters on the Trident Hunter (sounds like a Commando again)...

That looks really good Nigel - and it's great to see the collaboration between cNw and NYC Norton working out so well!

I have just started playing with rearset ideas on my featherbed project - no funds and lockdown gives me time to procrastinate, which can be very dangerous!

I already have a set of Matt's rearsets to play with, so these will form the basis of what ever I come up with - but what you've done there looks very neat, and has given me some enthusiasm!

I have the reverse lever. Truth is you are correct, the linkage is the way to go. You do pick up some play with it but lever rotation
is more favourable.
Id have to get the shifter camshaft changed to do that though. My box is set up for BSA/Tri pattern. Think it is safer to have all
your bikes shift the same, ie , as a Norton.

Man, those are some very interesting tidbits on that bike...

I thought it was a test failure in U.K. To not have a chain guard.??

olympus said:

I thought it was a test failure in U.K. To not have a chain guard.??

Click to expand...

No, its a fail if one is fitted and its loose, I took one off that was loose and it passed, have never got round to put back on.

Fast Eddie said:

I have honestly forgotten how many iterations of rear sets I’ve been through! Without doubt, IMHO Matt and Kenny between them offer the best out there.

However, Matt’s require a reversed lever and I want a linkage. Matt’s are also a bit ’proper racer’ in terms of position, which I no longer found the most comfortable.

So... I put the ‘standard’ cNw z plates back on and used the NYC levers. With a lot of faffing around, some new adapter plates, spacers and linkage rods, I now have my latest iteration.

The pegs are around 2” forward and 1+” lower than before, that might not sound much, but it makes quite a difference to the comfort. But this set up is really only possible sans kickstart lever. My next job is to remove the gearbox cover and make up a spacer to remove the unused kickstart shaft.

All in all, I’m well chuffed.

Oh, and some might notice the return to peashooters on the Trident Hunter (sounds like a Commando again)...

Click to expand...

so how close would that put your pegs to the original factory position? i currently still have a dunstall rearset on the 850, and hate the linkage , a change to a reversed lever would tighten up the shifter, and also solve the 1up3down problem which is not engrained in my memory anymore.

It seems to be one of those bikes that looks good no mater what configuration you have on it, nice one Nigel.

850commando said:

so how close would that put your pegs to the original factory position?

Click to expand...

At least 4 or 5 inches further rearward, considering the length of the original footpegs...

[EDIT] maybe 6"...

Looks really neat Nigel .

Fast Eddie said:

I have honestly forgotten how many iterations of rear sets I’ve been through! Without doubt, IMHO Matt and Kenny between them offer the best out there.

However, Matt’s require a reversed lever and I want a linkage. Matt’s are also a bit ’proper racer’ in terms of position, which I no longer found the most comfortable.

So... I put the ‘standard’ cNw z plates back on and used the NYC levers. With a lot of faffing around, some new adapter plates, spacers and linkage rods, I now have my latest iteration.

The pegs are around 2” forward and 1+” lower than before, that might not sound much, but it makes quite a difference to the comfort. But this set up is really only possible sans kickstart lever. My next job is to remove the gearbox cover and make up a spacer to remove the unused kickstart shaft.

All in all, I’m well chuffed.

Oh, and some might notice the return to peashooters on the Trident Hunter (sounds like a Commando again)...

View attachment 16828View attachment 16829View attachment 16830

Click to expand...

The reasets look like UK produced Barleycorn parts?

@SteveA NYC Norton used to get their rearsets from Simon at Barlycorn Engineering - I have spoken to him a few times at various bike jumbles, and he does some lovely stuff (mainly BSA)

However Kenny has been getting them from elsewhere, or making them himself for the last few years.

grandpaul said:

At least 4 or 5 inches further rearward, considering the length of the original footpegs...

[EDIT] maybe 6"...

Click to expand...

sorry, I meant WRT a typical Dunstall or MadAss mount location.

Thanks all. Yes, I think they look good too, but far more importantly, they work good !

For those who asked, the peg position is close to the position where the stock footrest hanger mounts the stock Z plates. As per many other kits inc Dunstall / Madass / Norvil / etc, which would normally require either a wrap around or reversed gear lever. The electric leg changes this stumbling block though and frees up other options.

Went for a good test ride today and the footpeg position is much better for me. The angle of the dangle seems good too as the gearshift is sweet.

More noticeable is the exhaust change, it now sounds SO much better (to me at least). It’s just more fun to ride when it sounds this good! It’s made the bike run better below 3k. Above that it still goes like stink and builds revs FAST.

I’ve learned to be very untrusting of the arse Dyno, but I don’t think there’s much difference in go, there MAY be slightly less at 4,500rpm ish, but then again, it might just feel like less cos it’s pulling better below that. These things can be hard to decipher (to me at least) and I guess I’ll only know for sure when I get around to a dyno session. Don’t know when that will be though.

Kinda Ironic how the E start allows the removal of the kicker which allows for better rearsets.
At least concerning the shifting action. I've gone back to stock pegs purely for the better shifting.
Well done Eddie.....

MichaelB said:

Kinda Ironic how the E start allows the removal of the kicker which allows for better rearsets.
At least concerning the shifting action. I've gone back to stock pegs purely for the better shifting.
Well done Eddie.....

Click to expand...

Well, my theory is that if the e start is fitted... make it earn its keep... !

Fast Eddie said:

For those who asked, the peg position is close to the position where the stock footrest hanger mounts the stock Z plates. As per many other kits inc Dunstall / Madass / Norvil / etc, which would normally require either a wrap around or reversed gear lever. The electric leg changes this stumbling block though and frees up other options.

Click to expand...

Close to the rear mounting hole (which most of the foot pegs mount thru that use the over-the-kicker loop shifter)?

I found that foot position pretty ideal. But, as you say, it interferes with the RGM type T160 style kicker that has to be used with the NYN rear sets.

Below are the newer (top) and original (middle) mounting plates Kenny sold with his kits. You can see where the foot peg mounts compared to the stock z-plate.

The original NYN position leaves very little room for the boot with the RGM kicker, and you end up shifting on the toe. Not great. But, no problem if you are racing!

His new plates go up and back about 3/4" from that. No problems with interference from the kicker.

But, I have a bum L hip from an old ski racing injury, and I run a street version Mike Hamilton’s 2EX1 exhaust, so it puts a lot of stress on that hip with the footrest position so back and high and out. I cant ride more than an hour or so before it cramps up.

So, I am looking to place them much lower, about 3/4" drop from the originals, and still keep the 3.5" set back from the rear z-plate hole. This should be fine for the kicker, but may preclude using peashooters.

Do you think that wwouuld be the case?



BTW - Kenny designs the parts, but outsources the CNC work. I am sure they are too busy doing real work!

Wait a minute, so Fast Eddie's real name is Nigel?

Eurotrash Jambalaya makes skelotonized Z plates that look very similar to those made by cNw. Kenny’s rear sets will not fit on the cNw Z plates.

Gortnipper, when I was playing around with different iterations with a kickstart I had an idea which might help you...

I looked at some other kickstarts, from Honda I believe, and noted their knuckles face forwards. Now, if the RGM T160 knuckle faced forwards you have a lot more room to play with...

So I looked at the RGM knuckle, I see no reason why it’s not possible. You’d need to weld a new ‘stop’ on the front edge of the knuckle where it’s currently radiused, radius the back edge, then turn it 180 degrees.

RGM sell a raw knuckle, so you don’t have to destroy your current one in the process...


Bon chance !