Top and bottom yolks

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Mar 21, 2006
I am re-newing my top and bottom steering head yolks due to slight distortion. Are the original 7 3/8" centre forged steel triple clamps good enough or is this a good time to buy alloy ones, such as those sold by RGM or Norvil (Minnovation) ?

Apart from their more stylish modern appearance are the alloy clamps better or even as strong as the originals ? I am more interested in adding strength and stiffness than 'modernising' the Commando 850.

The RGM fork brace stiffener kit also looks interesting. Has anybody tried it or similar? Any advice most welcome. Regards to all.
I bought an RGM fork brace, it has eccentric adjustment to get the bores in line with the fork legs. I spent hours trying to get it right before finally deciding to measure the centre distance of the holes on the brace. They were so far out no amount of adjustment would get it in line. I returned it and they sent me the only one they had left which they told me had the clamp holes drilled in the wrong place but i accepted this. The holes for the clamp bolts broke into the main bore meaning i had to waste the body of the clamp screw to stop it fouling the fork leg. I have giving up on the brace. Looks good but some more accuracy on the machining is required.
The Minnovation stuff is top quality. I believe that he has worked with Steve Maney and Roger Titchmarsh. The obvious advantage for racing is lack of weight.

I don't think you'll notice a difference in terms of rigidity. Are things like steering lock fittings important to you ?

The old Norman Hyde fork braces and extended top bushes always had a good name, although personally I think that they look pig ugly :)
Thanks jimboyle and 79 x 100. Your comments are most helpful. I have a preference for the steering lock, so I will probably use original Norton yolks.

The fork brace is on hold. I will research again if I upgrade the front brakes, when I would anticipate some fork twisting might occur on the old roadholders. Cheers.
The fork brace is on hold. I will research again if I upgrade the front brakes, when I would anticipate some fork twisting might occur on the old roadholders. Cheers.[/quote]

What sort of front mudguard are you using ? Fibreglass (including Norvil or JPN are as flexible as hell.

The original pressed steel brackets from the stainless guards were fluted and therefore stronger than the pattern stainless brackets or indeed the simple plain bent plates now fitted to "genuine" guards (which are otherwise very good)

Depending on front tyre clearance, you could try bending up a bracket from thicker plate, thus keeping a standard look. It's the bracket that resists the twisting and alignment loads rather than the blade rivetted to it.
Thanks for mudguard info. That's a very interesting point. My front guard is stainless with a 3" wide arch-shaped bracket. This secures the guard fine but, as you explain, provides no torsional stiffness to the front forks whatsoever.
Presumably the original design is no longer available, so I will attempt to fabricate a stronger one. Cheers.
DRAT, long post got lost during preview.

Short version: Don't replace, find frame shop. Shops that do frame straightening can also do most any other part, especially frontend parts! ie: trees, tubes, legs, axles, rotors, rotor carriers. (did I miss anything?, ahh, wheels!)

BTW, not everything from the factory is straight :shock:
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