1up3down said:
good eye on the side cover needing refitting
about the clutch rod seal.....
a question
I thought the amount of gearbox oil was not high enough to reach the rod and travel into the clutch?
maybe the oil gets thrown around enough to get on the rod
I have had the clutch rod seal in place for many years and still get oil fouling my clutch plates, and that is with a dry belt primary, just saying it does not work for me
just installed my new Alton Estart along with a new clutch hub and new Barnett friction plates, this time I left the clutch rod seal not installed as an experiment to see if there is any fouling difference
many buy and swear by the seal..........
From my article.....@
http://atlanticgreen.com/ndnsclutch.htm
No Drag - No Slip Clutch
I doubt the norton commando factory has ever advertised that the primary with a chain should be run dry. The clutch may have been designed by an outside vendor for dry service, but then the factory would have knowingly installed a dry clutch into a wet application. Regardless of the reason for slipping, the results are all to real to the owner/rider and therefore making the dry clutch design argument a rather moot point.
A notched clutch center may be a possible cause for clutch dragging, but it is likely not the most common cause on Commandos. Much has been written about slipping/dragging clutches; cleaning in gasoline, sanding, sandblasting, etc. Overfilling the primary is sometimes a contributing factor to a slipping/dragging clutch. The most prevalent culprit on the Commando is gearbox 90W oil dripping out of the transmission main shaft and onto the clutch plates. The question is, how do I fix this leak?
From the CCRS installation instructions.....
http://atlanticgreen.com/rodseal2e.htm
1. How does it work?
A standard O-ring is used to seal the clutch rod seal against the face of the main shaft. The seal holder is screwed onto the end of the main shaft and captures the OD of the O-ring and presses the O-ring against the face of the main shaft with a calculated amount of "squish". The seal holder is held in place with blue loctite (not supplied).
2. Any limitations?
a. SNIP
b.
The only other one anticipated is if the face of the main shaft has been severely beat or hammered and degrades the ability of the seal to do it's job.
This includes an over generous chamfer on the end of the shaft. The oring looses support and does not squish and seal. It gets jammed into the chamfer. Since the manufacturing technology of the shaft is not consistent, an aluminum beer can washer or thin brass shim stock can back up the oring and will better seal the components. Correctly installed, the seal will stop ALL gear box oil migration. Simple, if you are getting oil migration, your installation is inadequate.
The over size chamfer is not all that common, but also not unheard of. Having sold almost 6000 of these CCRS I may have been involved with maybe 10 bad shafts...
All this applies to the atlas/domi CRS also.