TLS front brake question

In regards to the bad cable angle, I know there was a mod which used a 1" longer brake arm to give more leverage. Does any one have any experience with using one of those and would it end up causing the cable to sit at an angle as in the above photos?

dynodave said:

In the pix, the cable aim is very bad. must be fixed...
I have done two of the reinforcing kits and one worked absolutely great.
The second kit steel plate holes did not line up that well with the new pins staked in the aluminum backing plate.
This high friction made much more drag therefore much more reluctant for the brakes to retract the very well lubed, well routed brake cable, based on the power of the originals shoe springs.

Click to expand...

Interesting Dave. When I installed the stiffener plate a few years back I recall having to touch up the holes a bit with a chainsaw file to get a nice easy fit on the pins. Not much filing, but enough to know it needed doing.

Too many variables does not create reliability.

dynodave said:

In the pix, the cable aim is very bad. must be fixed...
I have done two of the reinforcing kits and one worked absolutely great.
The second kit steel plate holes did not line up that well with the new pins staked in the aluminum backing plate.
This high friction made much more drag therefore much more reluctant for the brakes to retract the very well lubed, well routed brake cable, based on the power of the originals shoe springs.

Click to expand...

The cable is/was not angled in use, the brake plate boss is turned because the lever/cable assembly isn't attached to the handlebar and is hanging off the fairing

Oh, and get rid of that sponge that is used as a brake switch too. An alternative switch must be used.

DogT said:

Oh, and get rid of that sponge that is used as a brake switch too. An alternative switch must be used.

Click to expand...

I used a venhill heavy cable w/o the switch, unfortnately they don't have something similar for triumphs

These brakes can be made to work well, but not this one. The reason you need an extra return spring is to overcome friction caused by the extreme angle the cable exits the brake adjuster. This friction will eventually fray and potentially snap the cable. The torque stop bracketry you have fabricated is preventing the cable from aligning correctly. Additionally the bottom brake lever looks from the photo like it'e fitted incorrectly. Try flipping it over to give better geometry. Hope this helps. Jim