Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife

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Craig said:
Late to this one , but I had similar lift , and I too upgraded wheel chock , was never satisfied with its build quality of table so moved it along , back to wooden table a la Greg Marsh …. Dan50 knows he named his bike after one of Hobot’s right …..
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I named my bike after Trixie Norton

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife
 
Sure ! ….. my recently gone Brutus was named after the character in the “born loser” comic strip , early on I couldn’t seem to win … then all changed , kept the name though …. just curious as Hobot was a very illustrious and well versed poster /member here …. thought you should know, if you didn’t …. carryon and good luck !
 
Trixie Draws First Blood!

I managed to rig up something to hold the gearbox sprocket to remove the nut.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife



Unfortunately I didn't do my research and after several attempts at removing the nut as a right hand thread I managed to get the nut very tight before I realized my error.

When I did start the turn the nut clockwise, I broke one of the cardinal rules and as I was pushing the wrench, it slipped off the nut and I barked my thumb taking a nice little chunk out of the knuckle!

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife



After applying a Band-Aid held onto my greasy thumb with electrical tape, I was able to get the sprocket off to examine the case between the bearings. No cracks.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife


I'm going to leave the gearbox in place for now so I can space out my brake drum for chain alignment after I get it from the machine shop on Monday. They have cut the circlip ring deeper and fitted a slightly larger circlip.

I bought an assortment of proper OD & ID valve spring spacers in 015", '030" and '060" thickness.
 
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Dan1950 said:
Trixie Draws First Blood!

I managed to rig up something to hold the gearbox sprocket to remove the nut.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife



Unfortunately I didn't do my research and after several attempts at removing the nut as a right hand thread I managed to get the nut very tight before I realized my error.

When I did start the turn the nut clockwise, I broke one of the cardinal rules and as I was pushing the wrench, it slipped off the nut and I barked my thumb taking a nice little chunk out of the knuckle!

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife



After applying a Band-Aid held onto my greasy thumb with electrical tape, I was able to get the sprocket off to examine the case between the bearings. No cracks.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife


I'm going to leave the gearbox in place for now so I can space out my brake drum for chain alignment after I get it from the machine shop on Monday. They have cut the circlip ring deeper and fitted a slightly larger circlip.

I bought an assortment of proper OD & ID valve spring spacers in '015", '030" and '060" thickness.
Click to expand...
Oh shit
At least the gearbox case looks good
 
The crack appears first on the inside of the case, between the bearings, where there’s hardly any metal.
So you need to check inside before celebrating too much.
Although some have continued to use such a cracked case without any issues, personally I couldn’t do that, it’d always be on my mind!
 
I also received my scissor jack. It need some rubber on the bottom as it slide way to easy on the lift deck.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife
 
Fast Eddie said:
The crack appears first on the inside of the case, between the bearings, where there’s hardly any metal.
So you need to check inside before celebrating too much.
Although some have continued to use such a cracked case without any issues, personally I couldn’t do that, it’d always be on my mind!
Click to expand...
Yes, I plan to remove the gearbox, strip it, clean it and do a thorough inspection on the bench.

The failure occurred at very low sped so hopefully it didn't put a lot of stress on the case.
 
those LH threads, there are more lurking in the engine, beware.

my friend was working on his 52 dodge, and the wheel nuts on the left side are also LH thread, and they are swagged in place, oh what fun...
 
850commando said:
those LH threads, there are more lurking in the engine, beware.

my friend was working on his 52 dodge, and the wheel nuts on the left side are also LH thread, and they are swagged in place, oh what fun...
Click to expand...
I learned about LH wheel lug nuts on Chrysler products in the late '60s when I worked in a gas station. They were still doing that in the late '60s and probably beyond for some time.
 
OK, Now What?

I'm going to remove the gearbox for layshaft bearing replacement and a thorough inspection. Please don't advise me that it can be done in sitsu that's not how I operate. I usually find it easier to just get something on the bench and I want to clean and inspect the case on the inside.

It looks to me like I will need to pivot the engine on the top mount bolt to allow the gearbox case to clear the crankcase. I'l aso remove the oil filter and such to gain a bit of clearance at the rear.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife




Here is where I am now, I removed the mufflers and hope to leave the header pipes attached to the engine. since they are nicely secured at present.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife



I know I will have to remove the chain adjuster to allow the case to clear the openings on the mount plate when rotated.

Any advise on what I might be missing would be appreciated.
 
Dan1950 said:
Trixie Draws First Blood!

I managed to rig up something to hold the gearbox sprocket to remove the nut.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife



Unfortunately I didn't do my research and after several attempts at removing the nut as a right hand thread I managed to get the nut very tight before I realized my error.

When I did start the turn the nut clockwise, I broke one of the cardinal rules and as I was pushing the wrench, it slipped off the nut and I barked my thumb taking a nice little chunk out of the knuckle!

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife



After applying a Band-Aid held onto my greasy thumb with electrical tape, I was able to get the sprocket off to examine the case between the bearings. No cracks.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife


I'm going to leave the gearbox in place for now so I can space out my brake drum for chain alignment after I get it from the machine shop on Monday. They have cut the circlip ring deeper and fitted a slightly larger circlip.

I bought an assortment of proper OD & ID valve spring spacers in 015", '030" and '060" thickness.
Click to expand...
The obligatory blood letting procedure. SOP
A few chunks of aluminum bar allow holding clutch basket, engine sprocket & drive sprocket against tightening/loosening torque.
 
Dan1950 said:
OK, Now What?

I'm going to remove the gearbox for layshaft bearing replacement and a thorough inspection. Please don't advise me that it can be done in sitsu that's not how I operate. I usually find it easier to just get something on the bench and I want to clean and inspect the case on the inside.

It looks to me like I will need to pivot the engine on the top mount bolt to allow the gearbox case to clear the crankcase. I'l aso remove the oil filter and such to gain a bit of clearance at the rear.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife




Here is where I am now, I removed the mufflers and hope to leave the header pipes attached to the engine. since they are nicely secured at present.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife



I know I will have to remove the chain adjuster to allow the case to clear the openings on the mount plate when rotated.

Any advise on what I might be missing would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Have a look at the thread "1972 combat gearbox removal" started by me Oct 26. You might find it helpful.
 
Dan1950 said:
Trixie Draws First Blood!
Click to expand...
......
Dan1950 said:
When I did start the turn the nut clockwise, I broke one of the cardinal rules and as I was pushing the wrench, it slipped off the nut and I barked my thumb taking a nice little chunk out of the knuckle!

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife



After applying a Band-Aid held onto my greasy thumb with electrical tape, I was able to get the sprocket off to examine the case between the bearings. No cracks.
Click to expand...
Consider it your official initiation into Brit Bikes, and the darker world of Nortons.
Fret not, there will be more.
Carry on......
 
Dan1950 said:
Trixie Draws First Blood!

I managed to rig up something to hold the gearbox sprocket to remove the nut.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife



Unfortunately I didn't do my research and after several attempts at removing the nut as a right hand thread I managed to get the nut very tight before I realized my error.

When I did start the turn the nut clockwise, I broke one of the cardinal rules and as I was pushing the wrench, it slipped off the nut and I barked my thumb taking a nice little chunk out of the knuckle!

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife



After applying a Band-Aid held onto my greasy thumb with electrical tape, I was able to get the sprocket off to examine the case between the bearings. No cracks.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife


I'm going to leave the gearbox in place for now so I can space out my brake drum for chain alignment after I get it from the machine shop on Monday. They have cut the circlip ring deeper and fitted a slightly larger circlip.

I bought an assortment of proper OD & ID valve spring spacers in 015", '030" and '060" thickness.
Click to expand...
Try this:

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife

works both ways..
 
Always best on the bench, when I built my 850/Featherbed I built it for easy removal of everything motor/GB/Primary 7 major bolts and carb removal and I can lift my motor/GB/Primary and engine mounts all in one lift, within 30 minutes I can have everything on the bench, not so easy in a Commando frame.
 
MichaelB said:
......

Consider it your official initiation into Brit Bikes, and the darker world of Nortons.
Fret not, there will be more.
Carry on......
Click to expand...
My "official initiation into Brit bikes" occurred over 52 years ago when I bought a '67 BSA Thunderbolt.
 
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Dan1950 said:
Why didn't I think of that?

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife
Click to expand...
You were probably worried about breaking or damaging a tooth
But if it's placed as Ludwig has done at the base of a tooth it'll be fine
Don't worry I've never thought of doing it that way either!
I have a length of chain with a bar welded to it
 
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