This is great....

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jbruney

jbruney

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I figure you guys have beat this to death, but now is my turn. The Vernier ISO's with the exception of installation are first and foremost truly the cat's meow. Almost killed myself getting it in the front... took off today & thought I was on an old Trumpet, but 10 minutes later was pulled in the shed where it was tweaked in another 10 for as smooth as a Norton gets. I feel as if I've discovered sliced bread or the wheel.
Hearing about it from you guys is only hearing about it.... This is experiencing it for myself..... Putting it in is still the big suck for both kinds, though the adjusting on these is a real dream. Thanks for forcing me into pondering upon this move. It is a wise one indeed.
 
All of it. Vernier adjustment makes it about a 10 minute job to set. As said installation is another matter.
 
jbruney said:
All of it. Vernier adjustment makes it about a 10 minute job to set. As said installation is another matter.
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Installation - they slip right in! Of course the hour or two trying different angles, approaches, methods are infuriating but the worst thing is (at least for me) not being able to remember from one time to the next exactly how I did it the last time!

Nortons have a few things I find ridiculously hard: 1) Installing the front engine mount, 2) Installing the cylinder head with the engine in the frame, 3) Installing the carbs/air cleaner
 
With my hands malfunctioning it took a day + 1/2 day to coax the new one into the tube. I have no strength in my thumbs and it hurts like hell to squeeze down. Had to go in from the bottom, which it first refused to do. Upon threating it with a hydraulic jack, 4# hammer & 4' bar..... I gave bottom one last try and it was permitted to slide in. No one is ever going to convince me that these machines do not have a spirit living within. Threaten to burn down the house and receive some cooperation because I'm just to damned old and sore to go ten rounds every time I want to ride.

I'm going after that clutch center bearing next, and had best get some respect from this old crate.
 
Have mine in five years and no adjustment needed or rather the adjustment hasnt changed. I did fiddle a bit with them when I installed them trying for the best clearance. Loose seems to make a big difference in the vibratoes. But then it isnt quite what Id like when pressed in a turn.
Perhaps like my forks and shocks: the rears have soft springs and I adjust the fronts (John Bould's) soft as well. After getting off my other bikes it feels a bit scary but 25 miles down the road and I adjust to it and get a fine comfy ride for longer distances.
Suspect you make your choices...
 
jbruney said:
With my hands malfunctioning it took a day + 1/2 day to coax the new one into the tube. I have no strength in my thumbs and it hurts like hell to squeeze down.
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Your hands sound like mine.

Too late now, but they are pretty easy to put in with the right grease. I get my upgrade kits from AN and I bought the red grease they sell for the Isolastics. One tub will last the rest of my life but it is worth it. https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/18449
 
I changed my isos rubbers( the old rear rubbers were OK after all those years but the fronts were shot big time)when I rebuilt my mk3 last winter. With different weight pistons or something or stiffer rubber I have more vibration than I remember. So last week I adjusted both ends one half of turn from tight. It did remove some of the vibration I was feeling, and the roads I was were not terribly twisty so I did not feel the handling was compromised,( note; I do have a Comstock headsteady) I was going to tighten both up a little at a time and ride until the vibration came back but I got lazy and didn't.
 
I think each machine shall respond slightly differently on adjustment clearance. Started at .006" and she shook the fillings out of my teeth...Set at .008" yesterday and lots less but still kind of harsh...So onward to .010" today, and if that doesn't do it I'll try .012". We'll see where handling becomes affected anyway just because I need to know the true parameters.
 
Mine was a bit squiggly when newish after all other bikes anyway so it would have to behave like a snake for me to notice anything awry. Generally if it wiggles too much I dial the rear up to the top.
 
jimbo said:
I changed my isos rubbers( the old rear rubbers were OK after all those years but the fronts were shot big time)when I rebuilt my mk3 last winter. With different weight pistons or something or stiffer rubber I have more vibration than I remember. So last week I adjusted both ends one half of turn from tight. It did remove some of the vibration I was feeling, and the roads I was were not terribly twisty so I did not feel the handling was compromised,( note; I do have a Comstock headsteady) I was going to tighten both up a little at a time and ride until the vibration came back but I got lazy and didn't.
Click to expand...

I suspect that the Jim Comstock/CNW headsteady allows you to open the isolastic adjustment out quite a bit because it controls the movement of the engine much better than the stock head wobbly, oops, I mean steady. I have had my head steady fitted for some 50,000 miles and noticed much improved handling with it. I have now backed the isolastic adjustment off quite a bit with much reduced vibration and no hinge fitted when cornering. Don't ask what the gap is because I didn't measure it. Maybe Jim can comment on this.
 
This is great....

What came out after 46years. If you're asking me. Front final at .011" & staying. Back staying forever at .010".
 
i'm somewhat of a noob, but managed to pull this off without a hitch. bought AN Mk3's kits from old britts for my 74 Mk2. installation was easier than I thought. set lateral end play adjustment to .010" front and rear. didn't upgrade the head steady, but installed new rubber mounts. my original rears were severely off center, and one of my front rubbers was actually dry-rotted.
 
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