Hey thanks guys the power company idea is worth checking into and the V-twin view was informative on both how it might look and where the heat may linger most. The cocky canted Commando engine is a high light to everyone so wouldn't want to cover it up too much for normal usage but abnormal things are me hobby with Peel. I've 'studied' the air craft history of increasing fin area machining them to paper thinness and number, then sheet metal ducting to force air to flow around jugs more evenly then water spraying the fins and external coolers. I don't think i'd need to completely wrap engine in sheet metal but by smaller well placed flaps like playing card size to grab extra air and direct it for best effect.
The other night when heating Trixie exhaust ring area to beat them off before lifting jugs for resealing success, I saw the propane flame split up and shoot out here and there, to take care not to fry the plug boots for one thing. This got me to thinking about how to help air flow. I've seen the whole air flow on Wes's naked '71 one foggy night lit by full moon and my own head light as he took off over 60 mph. I was surprised by how much air the engine split then slapped back together where the carb throats/filter was. There is a Norton ad that shows the head fin internal and external air paths, quite clever to see.
So I'm thinking how to assist the big IS tank air funneling function and some scoop flaps on upper down tubes to grab more air the forks and stem block and maybe a vertical plate in middle of rear engine to keep the pressure lower there where its slaps together. I really did live on Peel through winter as long as not much ice risk in the shady turn sections but was warm toasty with a big windscreen, as long as I kept moving - I got strange looks by all the cagers in heated seats. So I've got a big vintage fairing with lowers to fit and suspect I can foam/contour fill the back side of the lowers to help duct more air to cool and maybe even warm me some too. Then with water on tap -spray it on front of head to flow through center of head where its likely the hottest to relieve, when trying to sustain the boost-fuel heat for a track day or bee line speed event.
In real life in Ozarks there's no way to sustain hi throttle very long and expect to return. [but faster than them sloppy moderns will risk] Nor is there a need if just sitting still or creeping on low throttle as I've seen hi way temps just fade to below normal in seconds of reduced throttle. The tricky thing about water spray is it does little good after the burn, so should be sprayed before the need - to create the heat sink effect or sprayed continuously which I won't have enough water to do for long, say a few minutes, unless set up for a special event/attempt. I was relieved to see that water spray or rain did not heat shock-distort similar construction engines. One thing I've learned is not to expect oil to do much cooling over all just carry local bearing space heat away to rest of the engine to dump. Oil coolers only cool oil to matter not the motor,ugh.
