Temperature differential, left cylinder to right cylinder.

I’m wondering if it’s a difference in porting? Maybe the hot pot is the good one? More charge getting in due to a slightly better port giving more intake charge velocity, raising the effect CR and creating more heat. Charge velocity increases with rpm, so that’s why you only see the temp difference at higher rpm.

Pure speculation on my part of course. Well, perhaps more like random meandering !
 
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I have a set of temperature guages under my spark plugs, I look at them mostly when warming the bike up but I do look at them occasionally on track!

Last year they got up to around a max 230C/210C, so the left/right, so the left is up to 20C hotter than the right most of the time, both warming up and riding. This is something that occurs on small throttle openings, not just wide open. Shut the motor down and they quickly settle at the same figures cooling down, to the degree, so I'm pretty sure the different indication isn't gauges.

This year, with a set of Maney alloy barrels they get to around 195C/175C, so up to 40C cooler but similar difference in temp. This is a great indication of the improved heat dissipation of the alloy barrels, and also a clue not to suspect barrels and pistons!. Pistons are similar JSMs, cam, timing, head, carbs etc are the same. I used fresh head and manifold gaskets in the build, which should eliminate a leak there.

The difference isn't huge, and doesn't show signs of damage due to the heat. But I would like to close the offset up.

It probably isn't ignition timing because I have a wasted spark Pazon set up, so they really must be the same each side. (I had a coil fail at my last race meeting, so it now has a new one.)

Carbs and air leaks could contribute, but there is nothing obvious, and will have to have remained the same after the top end strip, which I would have thought is unlikely.

My wife notices that on start up on the rollers there is always a puff of smoke from the right (cooler) exhaust, I'm not sure if that is oil or fuel, but it clears right away. These are Mikuni VM carbs with fuel enrichment, one might flow a little more fuel on choke than the other. But the 'chokes' get switched off quite quickly in 25C plus! (yes it was cooler today than it has been, 36C plus last time it was raced!)

Mentioning the exhaust, I had a couple of cracks show up at the pipe end, and have just had them welded. First run today after that work, no difference, just a little quieter according to those whose hearing works.

So, where am I going? Is the 20C differential a problem or a characteristic? I read a couple of techy papers that suggest that 50C to 60C is a problem, but 10C isn't. They didn't say if about 20C is a problem?

I think that a Norton twin may naturally run hotter on the left. And I'm pretty sure Jim Comstock's contributions here have noted that in the past, though I think that related more to cam wear patterns.

I understood it's because the oil is fed into the right side and the oil that arrives at the left is already a little warmer. But how much?

As short term action I'm going to (re) check slide opening sync anyway. I am also thinking that I might put a shim under the left needle clip to make it a little richer on lower throttle openings upward, principle being richen the potentially lean one, not weaken the potentially rich one. I suppose I should recheck the float heights, but I have checked them previously though probably before though prior to fitting the gauges.

I'm going to try and reduce the differential by getting a better balance and a bit more fuel in at lower throttle settings, but am I chasing a non problem?
Have you also compared the downpipe temps?
 
Have you also compared the downpipe temps?
No, I have a spot heat gun I could try when warming up, but I would have to be very particular about where, I have heat wrap around the pipes, they run high level inside the fairing.

Heat wrap is done by hand and I admit not 100% consistent along the length of the pipe due to the bends. I should try it, at least on the exhaust nut or adjacent to it where the pipe isn't covered.
 
I’m wondering if it’s a difference in porting? Maybe the hot pot is the good one? More charge getting in due to a slightly better port giving more intake charge velocity, raising the effect CR and creating more heat. Charge velocity increases with rpm, so that’s why you only see the temp difference at higher rpm.

Pure speculation on my part of course. Well, perhaps more like random meandering !
I have changed the right hand choke mechanism, mainly because I have another here and that was easy to change. And the one I have fitted is a pull up type, which is easier to use on the right hand carb compared to the lever type I took off. ( My 500 Suzuki stroker has a thumb choke and cable operated plungers, which would be even nicer, but more expensive for very little gain. )

The one that came out seemed sort of 'gummy' around the plunger sides, but not on the contact face.

Need to run it and see. Then, needle shim ready to go.

I mentioned the exhausts in my other response just now, now talk about random meanderings, I reckon it's nigh on impossible to produce identical pipes the way that Nigel Parker makes his, there are some differences in the bends, of course, they are left and right handed, and they are very similar, but small differences are visible close to the head.
 
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No, I have a spot heat gun I could try when warming up, but I would have to be very particular about where, I have heat wrap around the pipes, they run high level inside the fairing.

Heat wrap is done by hand and I admit not 100% consistent along the length of the pipe due to the bends. I should try it, at least on the exhaust nut or adjacent to it where the pipe isn't covered.
I was just wondering if it could be something to do with the exhaust valves. Maybe a sticky one, or tight tappet? A heat gun may help to identify it.

Also do you still run the crossover on the inlet manifolds? If so it may be worth temporarily blocking them and testing again?
 
No, I have a spot heat gun I could try when warming up, but I would have to be very particular about where, I have heat wrap around the pipes, they run high level inside the fairing.

Heat wrap is done by hand and I admit not 100% consistent along the length of the pipe due to the bends. I should try it, at least on the exhaust nut or adjacent to it where the pipe isn't covered.
Fairing, high level pipes, heat wrap..... more information now. Are the pipes joined anywhere? (2 into 1) Fairings can mess up the airflow around the engine leading to your temp difference.
Do you ride with one knee out a la John Cooper style? Try putting a baffle in front of the cooler cylinder and see if that brings its temperature up. If it does, you know you have an 'airflow around the engine' problem.
 
Fairing, high level pipes, heat wrap..... more information now. Are the pipes joined anywhere? (2 into 1) Fairings can mess up the airflow around the engine leading to your temp difference.
Do you ride with one knee out a la John Cooper style? Try putting a baffle in front of the cooler cylinder and see if that brings its temperature up. If it does, you know you have an 'airflow around the engine' problem.
No again, that is not to say I disagree with your comment that fairings affect things, but I'm sure it isn't where the problem lies.

I did say that it the problem occurs when warming up, that is, not moving. And I can add that it's exactly the same when I leave the fairing off, which I normally do when doing an initial start up after any work, and that is what I did the other day, no fairing and not moving. But the differential is the same fairing fitted and moving in a straight line or around corners.

The exhaust is a pair of separate pipes and runs around the engine cylinder and inside the frame and under the carbs so I could be boiling the fuel, but, it's been this way since 2014, and is part of why I wrapped the exhaust and have a heat shield underneath the carbs. It is one of the very few Rickman Nortons that retains oil in the frame, whilst that may have occasionally burnt my leg, I don't think it influences this situation.

So far I come back to it either being fuel mixture related from very small throttle openings upward, or a characteristic of oil/heat distribution right to left.

It would be good to establish if it is a characteristic, which would involve some other people testing under plug or exhaust temps, the latter being something that could be done basically with a common spot thermometer.
 
No again, that is not to say I disagree with your comment that fairings affect things, but I'm sure it isn't where the problem lies.

I did say that it the problem occurs when warming up, that is, not moving. And I can add that it's exactly the same when I leave the fairing off, which I normally do when doing an initial start up after any work, and that is what I did the other day, no fairing and not moving. But the differential is the same fairing fitted and moving in a straight line or around corners.

The exhaust is a pair of separate pipes and runs around the engine cylinder and inside the frame and under the carbs so I could be boiling the fuel, but, it's been this way since 2014, and is part of why I wrapped the exhaust and have a heat shield underneath the carbs. It is one of the very few Rickman Nortons that retains oil in the frame, whilst that may have occasionally burnt my leg, I don't think it influences this situation.

So far I come back to it either being fuel mixture related from very small throttle openings upward, or a characteristic of oil/heat distribution right to left.

It would be good to establish if it is a characteristic, which would involve some other people testing under plug or exhaust temps, the latter being something that could be done basically with a common spot thermometer.
If you have gone through the obvious stuff and nothing stands out, maybe try a different set of pipes, more like a standard set, even if its just cobbled together to try when warming up, see if that makes a difference.
 
If you have gone through the obvious stuff and nothing stands out, maybe try a different set of pipes, more like a standard set, even if its just cobbled together to try when warming up, see if that makes a difference.
I still have more to work on, i.e I need to test the choke, then the needle shimming. Either way it ran well enough to complete my last race.

This is me trying to make sure it all holds together longer!

As to trying different pipes, simply, I don't have any.
 
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