tearing down and rebuilding an engine first time

i'm in the process of tearing down a 750 engine that was sitting in a barn for 30+ years, it was rebuilt just before it was parked and was never fired as far as i know. i'm scouring the internet trying to find how-to's on tacking it a part to do cleaning and replacing some parts. i really need some help with taking out the valves. i already have the engine out of the frame, the cylinder, head, and lower in are all freed and sperate but all the small parts are still in them. Does anyone have a pdf manual, actual manual, or any instructions they are willing to share?

Online manuals, parts books (and lots more): technical-information-how-post-photos-t2357.html

thank you!!

just went through all of those links (the ones in english anyways) and still can't find what i need to know about removing valves

drtaylor101 said:

just went through all of those links (the ones in english anyways) and still can't find what i need to know about removing valves

Click to expand...

http://britmoto.com/manuals/Manuals/750_man.pdf
Section C3 - "Valve Removal and Reassembly".

If the manual information doesn't cover what you need to know then you will probably have to ask more specific questions, also try using the forum search to find previous topics on the subject.

You will need a valve spring compressor to remove the valves. The process is easy enough and valve spring compressors are easy to find. The only issue is that some compressors don't fit well into the "box" at the top of the head where the valves are located. But as noted, do a search here, I'm sure somebody has listed what compressor they used. I used a standard auto compressor which didn't actually fit but I was able to make it work ok by using a socket to act as an extension. I don't recommend this method unless you are quite familiar with the process - get a compressor that fits correctly.

As noted, all the info you need to do anything to the motorcycle is in the service manual. There may be newer methods and techniques that allow you to do certain tasks in a different, perhaps easier way than as per the manual (Like removing the rear isolastic rubber bushings), but you can't go wrong by following it.

Most British motorcycle parts distributors and resellers also sell all the proper special tools such as valve spring compressors and especially pinion pullers that you will probably need.

Older Brit bikes hardly ever come apart smoothly without special tools and even some heat from a small torch.

Welcome to the forum.

It is early here and I am still drinking coffee. But when I venture out to the shop I will take a photo of a tool I made to help in removal of the valves. It is nothing more than I piece of pipe or rigid conduit a few inches long that has both sides cut out of it. I resembles two rings, one at each end with a couple of pillars to separate them. This is because my valve spring compressor did not give me good access to the keepers once the spring was compressed. It turns out it is easier to use the tool I made with a large C-clamp.

You might spend the 45 bucks or so on the Mick Hemmings engine rebuild video. If for no other reason you will feel like you know Mick after watching it and that can't be a bad thing. It not only gives a good overview of all the assemblies and procedures but it shows you some tricks and things to be wary of.

Download the PDF manual and spend some time in there. Check Youtube. You never know what you might find and it seems an area that this forum could expand with great benefit.

What are your plans for the motor? Got a frame to go with it?

Russ

The most important thing to remember when rebuilding any engine; cleanliness is next to godliness. Clean that sucker up before you take a wrench to it. Keep you work area spotless. When you think you have the parts clean, clean them again. Never open or close the garage door while assembling. The last one a very famous engine builder told me about. That garage door holds a lot of dust and dirt. The best tool to have in the box is patience.

+1 - true wisdom Jim

JimC said:

. The best tool to have in the box is patience.

Click to expand...

Welcome drtaylor101.
This is the valve spring compressor extension I made for my recent rebuild. It's a bit different to the one I made for my first Norton rebuild, which was 30 years ago.
It works better, but it should have really been a bit longer. It's upside down in this photo, it fits over the valve collar.


Here's another tool. It's just a 20mm bolt. I used it in conjunction with a series of tubular spacers to extract the layshaft bush from the kickstart spindle, after first cutting a thread in the bush.
The I.D. of the bush is just right for a 20 mm thread.
I must have spent nearly as much time making tools as I did working on the bike.



Have fun
Martin

drtaylor101 said:

i really need some help with taking out the valves.

Click to expand...

recommend-valve-spring-compressor-t17104.html#p212090

If you have not done so, join the International Norton Owners Association. You can google it online and join. There you can purchase several helpful manuals and a pair of cd's by Mick Hemmings . The cd's guide you through the teardown and rebuild of the Commando engine and Gearbox, good stuff. I followed both on my complete restoration of a 1971 Commando. Mick is a noted Racing personality in Great Britain and a restorer and expert on most Norton bikes especially the Commando. Hope this helps and have fun while you are doing the job. Good Luck, Craig

If you need to regrind the crankshaft journals, pay close attention to the radius needed at the 90 degree between the shaft and the counter weight. This an old well known hazard if not done correctly can cause a broken crankshaft later. Also pay attention to the sludge trap in the middle of the crankshaft to clean it out thoroughly, also in the manual.

Long time ago, mid 70's I made a C shaped piece of dogwood that I used with a large C clamp to press the springs down so I could remove the valve collets. It worked, but I bent the c-clamp in the process, I still have the clamp, but somewhere I lost the piece of wood. I wouldn't really recommend doing this even if it works, better get the proper tool. Last time I sent the head to Leo Geoff and paid the big $$. But I never felt confident about working on the head, and I wanted the guides replaced and there was no way I was going to do that.

thanks for all the replies everyone. i'm going to do some more research tonight and maybe start cleaning tomorrow. i saw a few post about the different tools while i was searching the forum so i think this week i'll try to build one.

Just a tip about washing the cylinder bores after reboring or honing:
After washing out with kerosene or other solvent, it's very important to then scrub thoroughly with hot water and detergent. If this isn't done, some hone grit will remain in the bores.
The bores will rust instantly. That's OK, just spray with WD40.

I am kinda slow, but here is the extension I made for my valve spring compression tool. It is made from a 1" black iron pipe nipple. So it is about 1.25 outside diameter, 3" long. It took a couple of minutes to make with a Dremel cut-off wheel and a file. I pulled the piece of pipe out of my junk pile. I have a number of large C-clamps and it turned out that it was easier to use one of them rather than mess with my fancy cam activated spring compressor. If you had a C-clamp with the range to reach but the pad on it was not large enough to cover the end of the pipe, the top of this tool could be modified with a slot to allow it to slide over the body of the C-clamp so that the cast pad of the clamp was inside the pipe. You want for it to push straight down without buckling sideways, but the pressure needed is not that great. I put a piece of leather over side that contacted the face of the valve because metal on metal in that area freaked me out. Check your junk stores for big C-clamps, and get out the wire brush and wd-40 if you are on a budget.



As stated in one of the previous posts, you can spend almost as much time making tools as you do working on the bike. I don't live where I can run out and buy stuff easily, so I am used to making stuff. But there is a satisfaction and cost savings associated with it too. Despite how fairly crude this tool is, it went into my drawer of Norton specialty tools!

Russ

rvich said:

I am kinda slow

Russ

Click to expand...

. Hey russ are you faster when your riding your norton? . Nice tip on the tools, bud thx

INdeed Russ that expedient tool construction is impressive to see and would love ya to send me it if ever attempt head work myself. I watched Wes with his similar DIY compressor in action and it occured to me to bulge to sides are a bit for more fiddle room, if not collapsing the handy implement. If fasteners don't move on 1st good attempt I get out the torch. I like Hylomar and non synthetic tread in major seams. For kix i groove around and slightly funnel shape the cam bush oil supply holes.