Tank Sealers, old topic new thoughts

I bought a "New" tank made in India. It came with a fresh brazing along a seam and a hole patched on the side, flaking primer on the bottom and flash rust inside! Bought from a major US vendor of British MCY parts (Not an Ebay reject)... Still think these are quality control rejects with better ones shipped to vendors and the real garbage sold on Ebay. I feel that it is not a question of if it will rust out, but how soon so I am going to coat it. I am leaning toward Caswell but am wondering if it needs some rust to bond to. What are the forum experiances with "New" steel tanks that have never seen gas (Ethonol)? Not sparing any expenses in having my tank painted, and this is added insurance but I do not know what product is best. Thanks folks!

No - clean rust off or it will lift and negate your attempt to seal your piss poor tank :shock: - get the surface a bit "rough" from some sort of abrasion and dry before caswell

>>>>if it needs some rust to bond to

mooskie said:

I bought a "New" tank made in India. It came with a fresh brazing along a seam and a hole patched on the side, flaking primer on the bottom and flash rust inside! Bought from a major US vendor of British MCY parts (Not an Ebay reject)... Still think these are quality control rejects with better ones shipped to vendors and the real garbage sold on Ebay. I feel that it is not a question of if it will rust out, but how soon so I am going to coat it. I am leaning toward Caswell but am wondering if it needs some rust to bond to. What are the forum experiances with "New" steel tanks that have never seen gas (Ethonol)? Not sparing any expenses in having my tank painted, and this is added insurance but I do not know what product is best. Thanks folks!

Click to expand...

A little off the subject, but I have decals ready, purchased from British Only and cannot see what they look like thru the backing. I ordered Gold, and description says they have a black trim. I have chosen a Black, pearl metalflake and want the best decals available. Timeing is everything here, as they need to be applied after final topcoat and right before clearcoat. I will buy others if someone sway's me

Disclaimer here, talking about steel tanks only. I did the tank on my Triumph with POR 15 about 7 years ago and it has had E10 gas in it ever since and shows no signs of deterioration. The tank was fairly rusty inside. I used drywall screws and WD 40 to remove as much as possible. The deruster in the kit took care of the rest. Be sure the tank is thoroughly dried out using a heat gun or hair dryer. I also let the tank cure for about a month before putting any gas in it.

You'd be nuts to seal a new tank. Pressure test it (2Psi) with soap bubbles, repAir with solder any leaks found. Old tanks rusted through because they sat for decades with accumulated water in the bottom. It is a non issue today if your burning ethanol blended fuel, or, as mindful owners did before corngas, dump in a small bottle of Isopropyl alcohol once a month to remove the water. Properly cared for, the tank will never rust through.

A worthwhile fuel tank maintenance tip would be to:
1 Remove the tank and empty the contents into a container so you can see if any solids and nasty liquids have been mixing with the fuel.
2 The fuel tap filters and even in-line filters won't catch the fine oxidized rust that will clog the idle circuit on the carbs.
3 Pour some acetone into the empty tank, swish around and see what will come out.

I cleaned out my rusty, non-leaking 1975 Interstate tank and did the Caswell epoxy treatment.
Follow the instructions regarding the preparation and drying and the room temperature range for mixing and applying the epoxy.
I liked the Caswell because there were low fumes so could be worked indoors.
The Interstate tank has internal baffles that were a bit difficult to get covered and used up the entire package.
The epoxy cures to a glassy smooth finish that I trust will last using any fuel.
For me, the Caswell product was well worth the $53 delivered price.

htown16 said:

Disclaimer here, talking about steel tanks only. I did the tank on my Triumph with POR 15 about 7 years ago and it has had E10 gas in it ever since and shows no signs of deterioration. The tank was fairly rusty inside. I used drywall screws and WD 40 to remove as much as possible. The deruster in the kit took care of the rest. Be sure the tank is thoroughly dried out using a heat gun or hair dryer. I also let the tank cure for about a month before putting any gas in it.

Click to expand...

When I recieved this tank it was already rusted! I called the supplier and asked him what he thought of the way it was, after he patched it and his comment was that it is better then most he shipped! These India steel tanks are junk, but the only game in the USA today. I spent an extra $150 to buy from a vendor instead of Ebay. Had to rattle SS sheet metal screws and clean it when recieved. It got flash rust just sitting in the house, waiting for winter to pass. It is not a question of if they will rust, but how soon!

Bob Z. said:

A worthwhile fuel tank maintenance tip would be to:
1 Remove the tank and empty the contents into a container so you can see if any solids and nasty liquids have been mixing with the fuel.
2 The fuel tap filters and even in-line filters won't catch the fine oxidized rust that will clog the idle circuit on the carbs.
3 Pour some acetone into the empty tank, swish around and see what will come out.

I cleaned out my rusty, non-leaking 1975 Interstate tank and did the Caswell epoxy treatment.
Follow the instructions regarding the preparation and drying and the room temperature range for mixing and applying the epoxy.
I liked the Caswell because there were low fumes so could be worked indoors.
The Interstate tank has internal baffles that were a bit difficult to get covered and used up the entire package.
The epoxy cures to a glassy smooth finish that I trust will last using any fuel.
For me, the Caswell product was well worth the $53 delivered price.

Click to expand...

I agree. I used MEK substitute and B.B's to clean it, followed by acetone. Be sure to plug petcocks well and chase threads soon afterwards. I used all of the Caswell, but found that I dumped nearly half of it out. If I did it again I'd coat it with half and then recoat with the other half within 24hrs. Check for leaks along pinch weld.

Caswell did not work for me on the glass tank that came with my basket case. Two coatings and cure for 3 months. Within 2 days of filling up with E10, the Caswell started peeling off the inside of the tank, and had the consistency of rubber. After sitting out of the gas for a day, it went back to rock-hard. Mike said he'd send me a batch of special ethanol-resistant resin, but that never happened. I bought a tank from Fred and Ella when they were first available back in '08 (Pakistani, not even Indian) and had to fix it 4 times before it was gas-tight.

Last time I had the Commando tank repaired, I went and did the electrolytic rust removal. The tank sat on my bench for four days, cooking with baking soda and water in the tank and a length of all-thread suspended. I cleaned the rust off the rod each day until nothing showed on it. Tank looks great now, with a fine whitish coating on the metal. I have a local gas station that sells REC-90, so that's what goes in the tank. No more bubbling paint.

mooskie said:

htown16 said:

Disclaimer here, talking about steel tanks only. I did the tank on my Triumph with POR 15 about 7 years ago and it has had E10 gas in it ever since and shows no signs of deterioration. The tank was fairly rusty inside. I used drywall screws and WD 40 to remove as much as possible. The deruster in the kit took care of the rest. Be sure the tank is thoroughly dried out using a heat gun or hair dryer. I also let the tank cure for about a month before putting any gas in it.

Click to expand...

When I recieved this tank it was already rusted! I called the supplier and asked him what he thought of the way it was, after he patched it and his comment was that it is better then most he shipped! These India steel tanks are junk, but the only game in the USA today. I spent an extra $150 to buy from a vendor instead of Ebay. Had to rattle SS sheet metal screws and clean it when recieved. It got flash rust just sitting in the house, waiting for winter to pass. It is not a question of if they will rust, but how soon!

Click to expand...

Been working with sheet metal professionally 35 years. While the tank you got MAY be a misshapen lump, MAY have pinholes, the surface rust is a NON ISSUE for long term durability. The slipshod manufacturer failed to coat it with a preservative oil for storage/shipping. ANY steel will rust, if not coated with oil, just from the moisture in the air. Pics for us?

concours said:

mooskie said:

htown16 said:

Disclaimer here, talking about steel tanks only. I did the tank on my Triumph with POR 15 about 7 years ago and it has had E10 gas in it ever since and shows no signs of deterioration. The tank was fairly rusty inside. I used drywall screws and WD 40 to remove as much as possible. The deruster in the kit took care of the rest. Be sure the tank is thoroughly dried out using a heat gun or hair dryer. I also let the tank cure for about a month before putting any gas in it.

Click to expand...

When I recieved this tank it was already rusted! I called the supplier and asked him what he thought of the way it was, after he patched it and his comment was that it is better then most he shipped! These India steel tanks are junk, but the only game in the USA today. I spent an extra $150 to buy from a vendor instead of Ebay. Had to rattle SS sheet metal screws and clean it when recieved. It got flash rust just sitting in the house, waiting for winter to pass. It is not a question of if they will rust, but how soon!

Click to expand...

Been working with sheet metal professionally 35 years. While the tank you got MAY be a misshapen lump, MAY have pinholes, the surface rust is a NON ISSUE for long term durability. The slipshod manufacturer failed to coat it with a preservative oil for storage/shipping. ANY steel will rust, if not coated with oil, just from the moisture in the air. Pics for us?

Click to expand...

I have never figured out how to post pictures to this forum, should I link to Photobucket? I do have some "interesting" photos of my new tank, as recieved. They must sit on a shelf for the past 40 years?

Yup, photobucket direct link works

concours said:

You'd be nuts to seal a new tank. Pressure test it (2Psi) with soap bubbles, repAir with solder any leaks found. Old tanks rusted through because they sat for decades with accumulated water in the bottom. It is a non issue today if your burning ethanol blended fuel, or, as mindful owners did before corngas, dump in a small bottle of Isopropyl alcohol once a month to remove the water. Properly cared for, the tank will never rust through.

Click to expand...

Is that correct? I thought one of the issues with Ethanol in fuel was that the Ethanol combines with water or any moisture content in the fuel or space in the tank above it, then when it becomes saturated, it "drops" from the fuel, and causes water at the bottom of the tank? Ahem excuse the non technical terms used, I'm no chemist

Old Bloke said:

concours said:

You'd be nuts to seal a new tank. Pressure test it (2Psi) with soap bubbles, repAir with solder any leaks found. Old tanks rusted through because they sat for decades with accumulated water in the bottom. It is a non issue today if your burning ethanol blended fuel, or, as mindful owners did before corngas, dump in a small bottle of Isopropyl alcohol once a month to remove the water. Properly cared for, the tank will never rust through.

Click to expand...

Is that correct? I thought one of the issues with Ethanol in fuel was that the Ethanol combines with water or any moisture content in the fuel or space in the tank above it, then when it becomes saturated, it "drops" from the fuel, and causes water at the bottom of the tank? Ahem excuse the non technical terms used, I'm no chemist

Click to expand...

So not true! Ethanol is the worst thing a combustion engine has ever had to deal with, now they are cramming E15 down our throats!

Ah I read it here: http://www.lcbamarketing.com/phase_separation_in_ethanol_blen.htm

Called phase separation.

mooskie said:

Old Bloke said:

concours said:

You'd be nuts to seal a new tank. Pressure test it (2Psi) with soap bubbles, repAir with solder any leaks found. Old tanks rusted through because they sat for decades with accumulated water in the bottom. It is a non issue today if your burning ethanol blended fuel, or, as mindful owners did before corngas, dump in a small bottle of Isopropyl alcohol once a month to remove the water. Properly cared for, the tank will never rust through.

Click to expand...

Is that correct? I thought one of the issues with Ethanol in fuel was that the Ethanol combines with water or any moisture content in the fuel or space in the tank above it, then when it becomes saturated, it "drops" from the fuel, and causes water at the bottom of the tank? Ahem excuse the non technical terms used, I'm no chemist

Click to expand...

So not true! Ethanol is the worst thing a combustion engine has ever had to deal with, now they are cramming E15 down our throats!

Click to expand...

Oops... didn't mean to open THAT Pandora's box.