Swing arm

The crux of the biscuit is I'm going to re-bush this critter. 1) Both ends are sealed with caps- no oil fitting or threaded rod. 2) Since it is supposed to pull left to right I will do so as both sides are same & don't want to dabble with primary anyway. 3) Has anyone seen this before and if so did you go full primal assault? 4) This is 02/74. 5) It's pulled down to the point of I'm ready to take out the pin if I can do so w/o ruining everything within 1m radius.
I could use a visionary right now.

jbruney said:

1) Both ends are sealed with caps- no oil fitting or threaded rod.

3) Has anyone seen this before

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The later 850 Mk2/2A/Mk3 'sealed' pivot assembly?

https://www.oldbritts.com/mk3_sa_lube.html

Mk2/2A assembly is similar to the Mk3 except the 2/2A spindle is retained by the previous central bolt instead of two cotter pins. Once the central bolt has been removed then you should be able to extract the spindle.

There is a detailed series of videos on MiTy's YouTube channel showing removal, rebush, and fitment of Kiegler collars to a MKIIa swingarm.

https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLgDzKiI-i6nYLo3ogkkiao11FlCqQNK5d

Once the welch cap was removed via drilling small hole and using a tap to pull it out, the spindle came out with little effort using the 5/8" threaded rod. He'd rigged up a good puller setup but really didn't need that kind of force.

Thanks. Just got through digging through the net and found most info. I was frustrated upon discovery. I knew it was mkll or mklla, but not familiar with the changes....Never had cause to look until the twitch began, which I knew was not iso's I'd just gone over....I go back out to wrestle out the plug now...I like the earlier method more.

I just did my MKII SA, and understand why they went to welch caps etc. The MKII caps use a really fragile very long bolt to hold them on...no real torque can be applied to that thin bolt, so no real clamping force on caps, so their rubber o-rings don't get any compression. I used RTV silicone on the caps to help contain the oil. I guess too many owners/mechanics would see that zerk fitting and just pump in grease instead of the required oil. My bike had been greased by DPO. I've used STP oil treatment in it now...much like a thick honey, and so far it seems to be staying inside.

Tornado said:

the spindle came out with little effort using the 5/8" threaded rod.

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The spindle thread is 1/2" (UNF).

Everything is pretty much a moot point now because it now lies quivering in submission on the floor in the Norton nest. No puller, nothing except grab tools...Drilled plug 1/4" & prised out quite easily with screwdriver, only had metric taps & dies handy, so located size which ran in easily completely with fingers & pulled by hand...Pin is real nice shape, bushing have some wear, oil was present inside.
Now I've got to clean & paint swing arm, polish up chain guard. Wasn't wanting to do these because I like a bit of the lived in look to it. It's going to become spoiled receiving all of this attention after almost four decades of neglect...Next thing you know it'll be demanding some bling.

L.A.B. said:

The spindle thread is 1/2" (UNF).

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Thx LAB...you are correct as always. Intact, my Haynes book states the front iso mounting bolt as the correct thread for pulling the SA spindle....a very handy to know tip!
It worked great for me.

Thanks for the oldbritts piece.

Done did. Hope to never do another. Don't like locating that locking screw at all, but it's over and holding oil with no spare parts. Side play has completely disappeared as if by a miracle.