YES! It IS possible. I have done it without removing the primary, with much self introspection, beverage, patience, and staring with a flashlight...
You can slide a piece of wood or whatever between the inner primary and the left had side spindle end cap to try to keep it from rotating while you unscrew the long bolt with a needle
nosed pliers from the right side.
Once you get it unscrewed and have purchased a new long thin bolt and proper right side end cap and O ring, keeping the wedge in place on the left side, again with a delicate touch
and patience you can feel the long bolt make contact and begin to thread into the left side cover, keeping the bolt supported so it does not drop down going into the spindle tube.
You have nothing to lose by trying, and taking off and putting back together the primary is multi hour job to avoid if possible.
If you don't want to fool around with all this, then ride the bike until the snow flies, then get a slide hammer with the right spindle thread and take off the swing arm and clean everything up
and check the spindle to bushing fit to see if you want to replace the bushings. Don't forget to remove the top centering bolt prior to removal! If the fit is just a little loose, then you could install a pair of the Heinz Kegler (now deceased) type rings.
These keep the inner spindle flush against the forward parts of the bushings and can buy you a lot of time in not having to replace the bushings if not far to worn out.
Plus, its just a good idea for firm swing arm handling anyway.
Lots of debate about first just the "necessity" itself of keeping some lube in the spindle. The holes at each end are really tiny for any oil to find it way down the holes and then get between
the spindle and the bushings anyway. Some say use a light oil like a fork oil to give it the best chance of getting down the holes, and other say use a really heavy oil like 140 weight so it
does not leak out the end caps as rapidly as a lighter oil. Personally, I prefer to remove the spindle annually, clean everything, and reinstall with some antiseize coating the spindle, and then not use any lube in the tube. Annual inspections show this is working out quite well.
The whole idea is that after some 40 years any oil injected by heat into the bushings is likely all gone, so some way to have a lube or grease type between the spindle and bushings is good to
slow the wear and galling process.