Swing arm question

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You are right re indices - I was thinking about other bikes but I don't use either method (flats or indices) on any bike. Counting flats or adjusting via indices ASSUMES that the swingarm itself is in perfect alignment within in the frame, that the threaded portions on the swingarm are perfectly aligned with each other and (with indices), that the indices are perfectly aligned with each other. That's too many variables if you are seeking optimum alignment.
 
This is probably heresy but I have found on my bike that simply adjusting the chain tension and nipping up the dummy axle side results in an acceptable wheel alignment after I tighten up the main axle. I then move the adjuster to touch the axle nut and the job is good.
 
There are lots of threads here about aligning the rear wheel, and solutions for doing that (string, straight edges, etc) but you need a second person as the bike can't be on the center stand. For most riding it isn't critical, but I will say that the one time that I aligned the rear wheel to the front my "left lean" condition went away completely.
 
I think the issue would be if they were two different sizes were that you wouldn’t be able to turn the larger bolt because the nut could possibly hit the swing arm.

But like I said, I messed up and they’re actually the same size so I’m good!
 
If the threaded bores the wheel adjuster(s) operate in gets stripped you can always use 2 nuts, one on each side of the stripped piece; just like the pre-Mk3 transmission adjuster.

I use 2, 8' fluorescent light sticks to check alignment; once I'm happy with the results, and they prove out on the road, I measure the left and right adjusters and record numbers for reference.

Best
 
1) Make sure you have no play in your cradle's swingarm tube

2)chose your method to check wheel alignment. ( I made straight edges)

3)Align your wheels

4)Check to see if your adjuster distance for each side is the same length after alignment, so you can just use adjuster length in the future to adjust chain tension without effecting alignment.

On my bike the adjuster length was the same when the wheels were aligned, so I don't need to go back to straight edges unless I do some major disassembly sometime in the future. I just give the same amount of turns to each side and alignment is maintained.
 
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