well, all you Norton wizards out there have completely confused me now, and I'm sure I'm not alone here.It just so happens that I have a set of really nasty forks dissasembled on the bench right now, and i was looking through the forum to get some ideas as to what upgrades I should include when putting them back together. Installing progressive springs, was, I thought, one of the necessary first things to do. Now I find out that's a bunch of b.s.? Longer bushings, without doing other mods is a waste of time? What exactly should the average Norton owner do to the forks to improve them,for average street riding, without spending a fortune in upgrades that the average rider wouldn't ever need or notice? You guys are incredible in the amount of knowledge you posess and your mechanical abilities, but sometimes you don't seem to agree on anything, and getting a simple, straight answer is tough to do. Not a criticism, but an observation.
suspension opinions
- Thread starter donmeek
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Clean them up and put them back together in good stock condition. They were pretty good forks just as they were built. Use new stock springs and if the topping out clunk bothers you then you might want to do the mod to get rid of that. 10-30 synthetic motor makes them work pretty well for a streetbike.
The only mod I would recommend if you want them to work more like modern forks is the cartridge conversion- which will set you back some serious bucks. Jim
The only mod I would recommend if you want them to work more like modern forks is the cartridge conversion- which will set you back some serious bucks. Jim
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For ordinary road use the original forks are fine. You can go over big bumps without bottoming or wallowing. You can adjust the damping to your taste by putting different grades of oil in. I use ATF. Thousands of riders were satisfied with the stock set up for millions of miles and will continue to be. People on this forum are too clever. You just need to ride it and maintain it.
One of the best things to is to put gaiters on your forks to reduce the wear on the chrome from road grit. The orignal chrome is very thin and wears out quickly.
Even compared with a modern bike they seem OK to me. The only difference is you can feel a lot of the small bumps that a modern suspension can get rid of. It doesn't really matter.
One of the best things to is to put gaiters on your forks to reduce the wear on the chrome from road grit. The orignal chrome is very thin and wears out quickly.
Even compared with a modern bike they seem OK to me. The only difference is you can feel a lot of the small bumps that a modern suspension can get rid of. It doesn't really matter.
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Depends where you live, Nice flat smooth roads require no more than good original ,un-worn dampers , I live in the country ,cattle grids etc .So i use something that doe's not clonk and clatter over poor surface's.
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I just finished a 4 year restoration of a 1971 Commando fastback. I have installed many upgrades, several associated with the front forks. I installed progressive springs, new damper rods and caps and replaced all seals and bushings and installed new fork gaiters. I will let you all know how they perform when the weather gets better.
Brooking 850
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I weigh 80 kg and adopt a very forward riding position, I am running std Norton forks with new seals and thouroughly cleaned and 20 wt Motul fork oil for the road conditions in New Zealand, which tends to be great and twisty , but less than perfect surface other than the freeways. Works fine for me, next upgrade will be Lansdowne dampers, and same oil but thta is it. occassional bottoming out on drive way crossings is all!!
Regards Mike
Regards Mike
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The short ' Roadholders ' on the Triton ran External progressive rate springs .
Seems most run gaiters these days , the springs not so crowded on the outside , worth a thought ? .
All the insides of that machine were polished , damper tubes , rods , valves etc .
Normally worked very well , even on gravel roads .
Would leave more room inside for the dampening fuid too , need more for the same level .
Dommie top & bottom fittings might fall in effortlessly to locate spring ends . Just a Thought .
Seems most run gaiters these days , the springs not so crowded on the outside , worth a thought ? .
All the insides of that machine were polished , damper tubes , rods , valves etc .
Normally worked very well , even on gravel roads .
Would leave more room inside for the dampening fuid too , need more for the same level .
Dommie top & bottom fittings might fall in effortlessly to locate spring ends . Just a Thought .
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I keep wantin' to spend money on my Commando, but I keep realizin' it's pretty damn fine like it is.
Well you are probably right, I fall into the catagory of fiddling around too much. But I do agree, to restore the fork action to as new, get some new damper tube caps, contact norbsa on this site, he has bronze one, better than original. And replace the damper rods, they are most likely rusted and reaming out your original tube cap. The fit between these parts is critical to rebound damping. And I have the progressive springs, but in hindsight the original style are fine.
And Jims tip on the oil could be worth trying, the only fault with these old forks is stiction. Even assembling the forks with graphite engine assembly grease on the sliding components help!
Cheers Richard
And Jims tip on the oil could be worth trying, the only fault with these old forks is stiction. Even assembling the forks with graphite engine assembly grease on the sliding components help!
Cheers Richard
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I find by far the major source of striction is the springs rubbing stanchion insides and binding by snake coiling on compression against the stanchion insides so if rusted some can hold forks down almost in full compression, if ya can even push em down that far to begin with. Regular use tends to scrub surfaces clean but if sat up say over winter don't be surprised to have to take apart to get working again. I don't think any coating or lube will help long as the speed of spring on in stanchions ain't enough to make oil wedge separation and forces strong enough to rub off coatings.
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I fitted Lansdowne dampers. I'm very pleased with them. My Norton definately rides better than with the original set-up.
They win for me because they are adjustable for rebound and compression and weren't very expensive (although I can't quite remember what I paid). I don't know if John still supplies them now he's a man of leisure?
They win for me because they are adjustable for rebound and compression and weren't very expensive (although I can't quite remember what I paid). I don't know if John still supplies them now he's a man of leisure?
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hobot said:
Gooday Hobot,
Agreed.
2 x 850s with progressive springs and 1 x 750 with stock springs. The 850s make far more noise / sticktion. Laying the springs side by side, the aftermarket progressives are slightly snakey (from new) while the stock springs are straight.
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Reggie said:
Reggie, Dont think i will ever be a man of leisure :x Spring is around the corner and orders are building up.Austraila and NZ are my biggest fans at the moment.
Happy riding
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