Superblend Layshaft bearing

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The heading of this post refers to "Superblend".
This is a non standard title for the special roller bearings used to replace the original roller bearing in the Combat, that failed prematurely.
These special roller bearings have cylindrical rollers with a slight taper to give them a slight barrel shape.
In looking at the description of this bearing it refers to cylindrical rollers but no reference to the barrel shape of the Superblend.
So should this post heading use the Superblend title of just Roller?
 
As I understand it, the roller bearings with the "E" on the end designate that it's an E Spec with the rolled ends and therefore a superblend.
 
and I just paid Wallridge $110.00 each for the same thing only made in India!
 
Johnnymac said:
As I understand it, the roller bearings with the "E" on the end designate that it's an E Spec with the rolled ends and therefore a superblend.
Click to expand...

There is a thread started in 2009 called "Superblend Installation" that has a very long discussion on what is and why is a "superblend".
superblend-installation-t4509.html

From it
Fact 1 the term superblend is unknown outside the Norton world. it is not a recognised technical engineering term describing any special magical properties nor relates to Norton exclusivity.

Fact 2 the key to the whole issue is the suffix E. this is NOT heavy duty or another description. it means maximum capacity, nothing more, nothing less

fact 3 ALL modern roller bearings from reputable manufacturers have the modified roller ends known as logarithmic curve. this is a given. it is entirely different from the E designation. An MRJ306 will have the logarithmic curve on the roller ends .

So it seems the "E" suffix does not indicate a Superblend however fact 3 seems to say the rollers of any newer roller bearing will have the curve you are looking for.
The discussion is lengthy and can be confusing but informative.
 
Yup,that's the baby,order it. Bearings need not be ordered in from a Norton supplier as they will cost more ie: markup ,but you may want to help that dealer survive to supply you other parts,a consideration only. :wink:
 
OK, so I ordered the superblend layshaft bearing. There are numerous posts indicating the necessity of a shim for the layshaft assembly. Is there a Norton part for this shim or is there some generic shim material that is used?
 
It has a nylon cage the one I fitted has brass cage. I have worked in engineering for 25 year an messed about with bikes an cars for longer than that an have always been told that high stress bearings should as rule have brass cage to support the rollers or balls so they maintain there spacing relative to each other and relative alignment to the axis of their track races under adverse loading where softer nylon would give under such conditions.
 
I am confused... is this the right one or not? It arrived tonight and I'm about ready to pop it into the gearbox... It does have a polyamide/nylon cage. I've read the poly cages are just as good as brass. In any event, it has to be better than the 40 years old ball bearing that's in there now.

Superblend Layshaft bearing
 
My bike has had a polyamide caged bearing in the gearbox for around 30 years and 100,000 miles now. I may have to take a look at it this winter. Jim
 
comnoz said:
My bike has had a polyamide caged bearing in the gearbox for around 30 years and 100,000 miles now. I may have to take a look at it this winter. Jim
Click to expand...

Thanks Jim. That makes me feel much better.
 
All 3 of my Snorters have that bearing. Big miles on one. Freeze the outer and it should just drop into place in the heated box. Tap the inner onto the shaftend. Easy. :)
 
If you have got it then as you say it must be better than the old ball bearing. You have not said what other parts inside the box you are replacing but it is worth paying close attention to the bush inside kick start shaft that holds other end of layshaft as is its is worn it will allow shaft to move about an so put more strain on the bearing. Also the same is true for other parts an if gear teeth are wearing then fragments of metal will be carried by oil into the rest of box an so other parts will be damaged.
So its a case of don't half do the job or it won't last an if you change oil regularly it won't hurt.
As the old saying goes OIL IS CHEAPER THAN BEARINGS AN EASIER TO CHANGE TO.
 
I guess you guys must have bought up these bearings... I can't imagine there is a huge market for them. There were 5 there 2 days ago. No they are sold out.
 
I got the last one; back to my original question: Is the shim for this a standard Norton part or some generic one?
 
powerdoc said:
I got the last one; back to my original question: Is the shim for this a standard Norton part or some generic one?
Click to expand...

It is not a standard part. I usually cut them from shim stock. I think some people use iso shims also. Jim
 
Although the ID of the iso shim is the same as the OD of the kickshaft, there is a radius on the face where these shims would rest.
For proper fit, these ISO shims need to be relieved to fit flush to the face.
 
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