Sunoco 112 Octane

Where do you get this 112 octane leaded gas at Sunoco? Is it something new? I thought leaded gas was illegal for cars now in the states anyway.

DogT - Around here you can't pump gas into plastic containers. Across the river from me in NJ they even gave me shit because my metal gas can was not red enough. The paint had faded a bit and there were stickers plastered all over it. The new law said it had to be a red can. I had to repaint! I kind of burned my bridges with my language at that gas station so can't go back there!

That's all they sell around here for gas cans is the red plastic ones with the safety nozzle, about $10. I have some old metal cans, but I can't find the spouts for them anymore, guy at the gas station said metal cans are illegal around here. Strange.

Dave
69S

The argument was red cans indicated gasoline and blue fuel cans kerosene.
In theory someone would be alert enough to notice color of can before placing gasoline in a kerosene
furnace and causing an explosion when it ignited. Fire dept theoretically could tell what kind of volitales were on
scene if the cans were filled accordingly.
Russ,
There was a list in another thread on this forum regarding ethynol free fuels.
It listed Self Heating & Oil in Horsham as a non ethynol gas distributor.
I thought they would not sell 1-2 gallons to the "public" but 1 gallon is the same as 100 to them.
They are on Keith Valley Rd just about a mile in off Countyline Rd.
Ethynol free means lead in the pencil and the rating is 112 unleaded at 108.
I splurgged and went for the 112 octane.
Smells as good as the perfume dept @ Macy's. :mrgreen:
Marshal

Higher octane numbers mean slower burning in low compression motors, and for use in road going machines, its best to mix race fuel and low octane pump gas 50-50.

Hi Carbonfibre, I have a question. If one wants to avoid using ethanol-containing gas at all and instead uses only 110 octane leaded racing gas, do you have any recommendations since the high-octane gas will be burned more slowly? I am not trying to gain performance, rather I want to completely avoid using ethanol, however, I do not want to create some other problem if the fuel mixture is not completely ignited.
Thanks,
Ron

Marshal - Thanks for the info. Will have to try it to see if there is a difference in the way it runs. The issue with my gas can was that it was just not "red enough" for him to let me have any gas. It was originally red but had faded in some areas to a more orangy red like the candy apple red Matchless tanks of the 60's do.

DogT - I was dead wrong on the plastic jugs. Went into our local Walmart this morning and it was full of red plastic jugs and same price as yours. This was on the PA side of the river. (Maybe its the glass bottles with rag stoppers they don't like.)

My combat engine is stock everything and doesn't seem to have any pinging problems even if I have to use no name regular in a pinch. I don't detect any difference.

You can find lower octane alcohol free race fuels suitable for lower compression motors quite easily here in the UK: http://www.atolfuel.com/index.php?pIDref=113 However they are pretty costly, so unleaded avgas is probably a better option? You can use high octane race fuels intended for forced induction race motors in road going low compression bikes, but it would be a good idea to have ignition and carburetion set up on a rolling road dyno, if this fuel is to used all the time.

Okay, but assume I do not have access to a dyno. Now what? What changes would you advise to avoid future problems?
Thanks,
Ron

I run 87 no lead no ethanol in Trixie Combat with a bit more CR than factory and so far [not WOT racing around] have no knock or ping in hi heat this summer even almost lugging along climbing in 4th just over 30 mph, yet thumper torques right up WOT no problemo on AAU fast leap curve. Rode her today till heat to much to enjoy and forgot to select 91 oct d/t reflex filling up sedan, but didn't give it a 2nd thought but think it gives a tad barky-er exhaust note.

1. Low octane slower burn fuel only adds power if the engine is tuned to extract it, otherwise tends to degrade spunk and still be burning in the headers.

2. If ya run hi octane and want some of its power benefits you must up the CR and advance spark to give highest combustion/torque pressure and not ping/knock plus may also retard cam for higher pressures at lower rpm.

3. A good fast burn swirl turbulence combustion chamber with ignition curve for it can get more power out of lower octane fast burn fuel than an engine that's more detonation prone - run on higher octane slower burn fuel. Don't mis-con-screw this, you can make more power on engines that needs higher octane by extra increase in CR by pistons, cam design/degree and rpm and boost plus good spark advance.

4. I have department store 5 gallon plastic gas jugs with fuel in them constantly for over 8 years but not with booze in them, so don't know it they can take it long.

There are a few things to be aware of in av gasoline as discussed by this thumper forum in just one page...
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archiv ... 03945.html

O/k, O/k, I give up trying to figure out what the abbrevation "WOT" is. Could somrbody tell me.

On the other hand, I use 95 octane in my Commando, 10-1 compression, PW3 cam etc., & it runs fine.
& the best bit is, just bought another Commando

wide
open
throttle

Flo said:

O/k, O/k, I give up trying to figure out what the abbrevation "WOT" is. Could somrbody tell me.

On the other hand, I use 95 octane in my Commando, 10-1 compression, PW3 cam etc., & it runs fine.
& the best bit is, just bought another Commando

Click to expand...

There is another abbreviation that conveys a bit more emotional aspect to WOT, ...
WFO, if you can read between the letters. Another common one on other lists is DPO, Dear Prior Owner or Damn Previous Owner... or Departed Past Owner...

Thankyou! I were rackin' me brains out.

How about the term "snafu"
That time we've all reached working on CDO's

It's an Naval term (actually an abreviation)... created long before "texting" slang.

who else knows what it means?

on anotoher note... I once saw a license plate that read "FOAD"



JD

Situation normal, all f*%ked up.

How about FUBAR or HMFWIC

DPO's are responsable for fubars...

JD

Olephart said:

Situation normal, all f*%ked up.

How about FUBAR or HMFWIC

Click to expand...

I have an Aviation Consumer magazine in my archives someplace that covered a chemical analysis of Marvel Mystery Oil. It turned out to be a common 5W machine oil with a high level of phosphorous, a light solvent, red dye and wintergreen scent. So, it has solvent properties as well as lubricating properties due to the phosphorous. The addition of MMO is said to improve valve guide lubrication. It also smells good.

Someone mentioned putting castor-based oil in fuel. In my opinion it's a bad idea since castor and petroleum oils are not compatible. Some of the castor is bound to make it into your petro oil contaminating it.

MMO is ok but no miracle worker over about any other dash of decent oil in gas but not much as lowers octane. I put Bean oil in my chain saws and in my Commando's time to time but a very little does it or becomes over powering in close quarter of chain sawing in deep brush and tree falls. Ms Peel never ran better than with a dash of Castor Bean oil and Ozark 195 proof moonshine in the tank.
http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=

Don't know if you'all have studied up on octane needs but I sure have for supercharged 10.5 CR Ms Peel to find 112 oct is all she needs to run to over 17:1 effevtive ratio while retaining full spark advance for highest torque combustion pressure. Is anyone else cable strapping their head to the cradle?