Stupid question....

When re torquing cylinder head do you release all and retorque, or do them individually?? Thanks..

marinecommando said:

When re torquing cylinder head do you release all and re torque, or do them individually?? Thanks..

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I do not. I simply go around to confirm and/or allow the fastener to come to spec if needed. I feel that by releasing, you are basically starting over and loosing the integrity of the original sealing surfaces.

"DO NOT DISTURB" Just confirm.

Thanks.

You should not loosen the head bolt -however you should turn it backwards just far enough to break the threads free before you torque it. Otherwise you run the risk of stuck threads giving you a false high reading. One at a time. Jim

comnoz said:

You should not loosen the head bolt -however you should turn it backwards just far enough to break the threads free before you torque it. Otherwise you run the risk of stuck threads giving you a false high reading. Jim

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I learn something new here all the time, I didn't know that----I may have at one but if so I'd completely forgotten about it. :shock: Thanks for the posting that Jim.

There is a lot of Torque about Norton
Maybe not pertaining directly to our engines but here is a good FYI video put out by ARP-bolts.com on lubricants on bolts while using torque wrenches. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-XXVk_v ... _embedded#!
or go here: http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/video.shtml
Enjoy
Cheers
Thomas
CNN

Thanks for the advice.. Just finished a major rebuild and she started first kick, sounds awesome with the new 32mm head on.. run her for 15mins till nice and warm, will re torque in the morning and replace everything ready for the good weather next week... Life is good.....

Is that the 200xxx crankcase you have there? A new head too? Tell us more.

Had to do a complete, rebuild, crank case, crank, barrels, pistons and con rods after 2 nuts from the crankshaft decided to part company with it and go walkabout instead... The damage they caused was unbelievable. The case is beyond repair, there is a 2'' long hole in the lower part, where all my oil went.... Before seizing solid.... I had no prior knowledge that anything was wrong... It was a gloriously sunny cold morning, early, and hardly any traffic, so I think they call it spirted riding,was taking place. Luckily I managed to keep her upright when the seize happened. As soon as I saw the oil on the back wheel I knew it was terminal..... Still all back together now and ready to go, got some plans for European touring this year... Happy days..

Many, many thanks to pvisserill for helping me out with the crankcases, you're a diamond mate and if you ever get over this side of the pond look me up, I owe you a beer or two......

Had to do a complete, rebuild, crank case, crank, barrels, pistons and con rods after 2 nuts from the crankshaft decided to part company with it and go walkabout instead... The damage they caused was unbelievable.

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Sorry to hear that, did the same on mine 10 years ago when a 'newish' rod bolt let go. Cases, rod, Maney barrels, pistons etc. and a bent left frame rail and front ISO bolt. Saved the crank though! Should be good for a few years yet.