Stuck - Boyer plate
- Thread starter Skyguyz
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Yes, you need to put a bolt in there and LIGHTLY tap it to the side which will break it free from the taper. Or put the bolt in there and put a visegrip on it and pull.
As dave says, 'put a bolt in and either pull it out or wiggle it sideways', if you haven't dealt with one before; to give you an idea of how it's fitted , the back of the plate you see with the magnets is shaped like a cone and is an interference fit into the end of camshaft, so, basically, if you break the tightness of fit it should come off easily............. if all else fails, "hit it a dull yin!".... seriously though it should come off fairly easily.
The rotor has a 5/16-24 UNF, according to a Brit bike thread. the reason they threaded the rotor is so you'd be able to pull it off. Somebody said in the thread that they just bottomed out the bolt into the cam and were able to free it that way.
P.S. 06-4298 is a slide hammer for this and removing rocker spindles. Never seen one myself
http://www.oldbritts.com/19_064298.html
P.S. 06-4298 is a slide hammer for this and removing rocker spindles. Never seen one myself
http://www.oldbritts.com/19_064298.html
Half screw in the bolt and use a two legged bearing puller.
With two long flat blade screw drivers, wiggle the magnet plate until it comes off the tapered shaft ( be carefull not to damage the engine cases ).
Guess they just didn't make it Boeing Pilot proof
.
With two long flat blade screw drivers, wiggle the magnet plate until it comes off the tapered shaft ( be carefull not to damage the engine cases ).
Guess they just didn't make it Boeing Pilot proof
.
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If you've got a chilled white iron cam I wouldn't wiggle anything as they are very brittle and you could easily crack it.
I place a small diameter rod into the cam's threaded hole and cut to give the rotor removal bolt at least 5/16" of thread, fit and tighten the bolt and the rotor will pop off. Keep the bits for next time.
Cash
I place a small diameter rod into the cam's threaded hole and cut to give the rotor removal bolt at least 5/16" of thread, fit and tighten the bolt and the rotor will pop off. Keep the bits for next time.
Cash
Hey that's a good idea with the rod inside the cam's threaded hole. Thanks for that.
For the OP, don't be tempted to screw a long 5/16-32 through the rotor to simply bottom off on the end of the cam. If the rotor is overly tight you will bugger the end threads in the cam and it can be difficult to remedy without the proper tap. They are 26 pitch cei IIRC.
All the best.
For the OP, don't be tempted to screw a long 5/16-32 through the rotor to simply bottom off on the end of the cam. If the rotor is overly tight you will bugger the end threads in the cam and it can be difficult to remedy without the proper tap. They are 26 pitch cei IIRC.
All the best.
The small rod in the cam hole idea is fine as long as you don't get the small rod stuck in the hole. Make sure it's a hardened piece like a drill bit or similiar so it doesn't get smashed in there.
I once had to get a rotor off the end of a crankshaft of a guzzi and I didn't have the proper tool bit. They use the same procedure of getting the rotors off and I got my soft metal bit stuck in the hole and had a terrible time getting it out cleanly.
Tim_S
I once had to get a rotor off the end of a crankshaft of a guzzi and I didn't have the proper tool bit. They use the same procedure of getting the rotors off and I got my soft metal bit stuck in the hole and had a terrible time getting it out cleanly.
Tim_S
The slide hammer mentioned above is worth every bit of the money. I have had one for about 20 years and have used it on many different British bikes, and it even works on the Norton rocker spindles. I originally thought it was a silly purchase (how often do you take the rotor off with a Boyer?), but it is so quick and easy to use. The right tool for the job makes working on something a joy, not a pain in the a$$!
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