Sticking clutch 72 commando

Great forum, I have learned more in 3 months visiting here than I have learned since buying my 72 750 commando in 1986. This is my dilemma, riding home from work at 75 mph and my clutch lever goes slack. I could get just enough clutch to get on home. The bike had set from 95 till 2000 put in a local shop and had the top end freshend up all fluids and bearings serviced or replaced , electronic ignition but the clutch appeared fine. Just wanted to give you history. I have followed the instructions on adjusting the clutch several times and it works perfect for 5 to 10 shifts then won't disengage changed fluid twice and it has a new cable and doesn't slip at all . Help please

If the adjuster nut is secure then the circlip behind the clutch drum needs to be replaced.

Sounds simple enough . The shop changed the seal behind the hub (which still leaks) and the clip is not in the primary is it just to weak to do the job or installed incorrectly?

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The little clip gets crushed if over torqued. Less ,40 not 70 Lbs. Also the bend-over tab washer behind the mainshaft clutch nut gets crushed and loose . Use a different denser steel type one and locktite nut. :|

I've had the main shaft nut lossen up on the TS inside gearbox so could not get clutch spring tension adjusted to hold plate together until I opened up gb to find that surprise on other side of the obvious symptoms area. Commandos may be the most simply complex cycles ever sold.

hobot said:

I've had the main shaft nut lossen up on the TS inside gearbox so could not get clutch spring tension adjusted to hold plate together until I opened up gb to find that surprise on other side of the obvious symptoms area. Commandos may be the most simply complex cycles ever sold.

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This happened to me up in the middle of nowhere in the Pocono Mountains the first year I had the bike when new. The mainshaft nut under the clutch actuator had loosened and was no longer holding the mainshaft to the right side as it is supposed to do. This allowed the mainshaft and clutch basket to move outwards until the primary chain was super tight. I kept loosening the primary chain. The clutch adjusting screw was just starting to eat into the outer primary cover by the time I made it to where I was going.

I am thinking the main shaft nut is where my problem is since my hub has pushed out as well. I have not tried adjust it yet but it is super tight . Back in the 90's a buddy made me a compression tool of course now I can't find it. Is there a Kansas City mo. Or ks. Group of nortons . I put it in a show last week out of 5 antique bikes it did not place! I even have original paint on the Fiberglas lined ofcourse people just don't realize how great these bikes are! Sorry had to vent I just need some norton folks so we can help each other out. I have built a few Harley's but these bikes make me feel very frustrated.

Batride I almost blew beer out nose on your finding the adjuster so far out and just in time, good karma dude.

Tia, I'm mainly here for manhood mental therapy like you delivered on the level of frustration for such a simple little motorcycle. I kind of view them as a prisoners test, they lock you up with the pieces and don't let ya out till put together right. Oh they may give ya a manual but don't tell ya about its errors and over sights and omissions. Harleys were figured out a long time ago but the Commando has proven to be a never ending British mystery. It may not be the fastest nor the best handling but by golly its the most magical cycle I can imagine wasting time on, once road worthy that is. I find wrenching on them brings out my infantile side too routinely.

If its a hydraulic clutch that has been fitted as i think ive read above?? and fades after 5-10 pulls then IMO the M/C rubber/rings/seals/ actuator is dodgey.. Unless your leaking bigtime from a porous old hose or bad connection..

If your saying 5-10 pulls @ stationary position (on road same) then definately look at re-kitting/seals in M/C.. You should be able to pump/accuate the clutch plates etc a 1000 times without fault...

Curious to see which nut is loose ,start pulling covers and let us know . I'm a loose nut myself.

I think it's either the clutch adjuster nut/screw or the locking ring at the clutch release arm/body TS. When people do not have the proper tool to snug it, it will come loose.

Putting a 3/4" (I think) socket through the center made it maintain its position on the ring while tightening. There are flats ground to allow a big Cresant wrench to function.


I have found that when the clutch location circlip shears, damage starts occurring immediately frying the clutch locating washer to begin with, then having to chip away molten slag from disintegrated shims off the bearing race.