Question: How do you keep the sprocket from turning on the cam while tightening?Made some stepped cam sprocket keys to make cam timing adjustment easier. Gives about 2 deg advance or retard adustment depending on which way you install it.
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By making sure the key is fitted! The stepped key will/should have been made from a thicker woodruff key than the standard one so both top and bottom of the key will fit the cam and sprocket without any play. Ive made custom woodruff keys before by cutting up a scrap bolt as the material is very suitable for this application, the only problem is holding the thing to file/machine to the right sizeQuestion: How do you keep the sprocket from turning on the cam while tightening?
Yes, if the key is cut twice. The picture JS posted does not appear to be that and many others have documented filing off one side or the other of the part that fits into the sprocket.By making sure the key is fitted! The stepped key will/should have been made from a thicker woodruff key than the standard one so both top and bottom of the key will fit the cam and sprocket without any play
Yes, if the key is cut twice. The picture JS posted does not appear to be that and many others have documented filing off one side or the other of the part that fits into the sprocket.
Nice job Jim. Did you machine a thick key down to size or made them from scratch?Yes it is full width in both sections - where it fits into the cam and also where it fits into the sprocket. Below are photos of each side of the key.
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As you say, that’s doable. I’d still be happier having a couple of these to hand though just makes such messing around quicker / easier.As a non-tool room type I used a file on a stock key on one side. As Jim notes somewhere in his installation notes for his cams, you can insert a shim in the empty side you wish (ie, if it makes you
feel better). Once home on the taper I doubt the cam will slip. Hasn't on mine. But that said I am
certain I will blown out of the water with stories about how wrong I am.
”far more advanced”…Although more agricultural in many other senses the ES2/Model 50 is far more advanced than the twins in having separate inlet and exhaust cams.
I had 2 extra keyways machined in the cam gears (at 120 degrees) giving the ability to separately vary the timing of the inlet and exhaust valve action, something that is impossible with a commando without a new cam (or cams)
I recall the gears had 40 teeth meaning 9 degrees per tooth - 120 gave you a 1/3 tooth variation (3 degrees)
You could do similar with the pinion (20 teeth) which would give 6 degrees movement for both inlet and exhaust.
What's wrong with using a thrupenny bit and a junior hacksaw!!As a non-tool room type I used a file on a stock key on one side. As Jim notes somewhere in his installation notes for his cams, you can insert a shim in the empty side you wish (ie, if it makes you
feel better). Once home on the taper I doubt the cam will slip. Hasn't on mine. But that said I am
certain I will blown out of the water with stories about how wrong I am.
Coz that’d cost thrupence !What's wrong with using a thrupenny bit and a junior hacksaw!!
Triumph, Ariel, Enfield, AJS/Matchless, Norton Lightweights (!)…”far more advanced”…
Like a Triumph you mean… ?
Yeah and lots of other engines of course.Triumph, Ariel, Enfield, AJS/Matchless, Norton Lightweights (!)…