Starting a cold Commando

The only time I have problems starting is if the battery isn't fully charged. The old Boyer just doesn't fire under 12V but when it is at the correct charge, its Houston we have ignition and the internal combustion gods let loose, oh the sound of it . If you need electric start get a Hickey Triumph as there for old men (like me) hahaha. Good luck .

I got the bike started yesterday after about 30 kicks.

I think the problem really lies with my starting technique more than the bike.

I have had the bike for just over two months and had problems starting it when I first got it. It seemed to sort itself out but then I took it in for some work, had the carbies balanced and changed the oil and plugs etc and have had problems getting it started since.

I have learnt the best way to kick the bike is to spread myself with right hand on throttle and left hand at the back of the seat which gives me the best balance and right amount of takeoff to really go through with the kick.

What I need to know is should I kick while at the top of the stroke where it is hardest to kick or off the top where it is easiest to kick.

Sorry if this is a bit long winded but the world of British bikes is new to me.

It never used to backfire but now it constantly backfire when throttling off. Should this clear itself eventually?

Frank

Something is not right.
The backfiring confirms that.
So needs to be put right.

I got my 850 (stock points and stock Amals) to the point where it would start in 1 kick.
Without doing anything else except tickle it and choke it when cold and just kick it.

30 kicks is at least 28 too many.
When they start easy, they are not even difficult to kick, the bike almost does the last half of the kick for you.

Hopethishelps.

Does your bike idle once you get it started and warmed up ?
Are you familiar with the idle adjustment screws on the Amals (access horizontally, one each side).

If you gently turn each one in and then out, with a small screwdriver, a half turn while its idling, does it affect the idle speed.
Note the angle the slot in the screw is at, BEFORE you fiddle with it.

If it makes no difference, the idle air and/or fuel passages in one or both carbs are probably blocked, quite a common problem.
If it does make a difference, put them back at the angle you started with.
Unless you find a better setting.....

You push the swine just past T.D.C. , so the crank gets a revolution ( like Castro ) ahem.
Theforeart the things at max velocity going over compression .
Correctly possitioned you get Two ' Fire's ' from one swing .

Really , tappets , ignition , and Carb. Sync. are schoolboy stuff . Twiddling & fettling these and control adjustments to suit you are all part of the personality .
Hence some go better than others . Biases are for rideing style . To optimise useability , etc .

NOW , If youre 5'8" or over , you should be able to balance the machine , OFF the Stand . Wheter your off or on the motorcycle .

Prctiseing ' getting the weight ' , and leaning - holding - and recovering to upright .
THEN , one finger on the front brake , pistons & crank positioned , one leap up to
throw yr weight , leg straight , on the Crank, and it should swing through , and FIRE on the first or second compression .

AND if the adjustments are correct - It WILL be running .

Quitely pushing the crank through Ignition ' ON ' will get a bump as it fires , Burning the Prime . THEREFORE , Cold . the Ign. is best left OFF untill its primed .

Flooding fuel everywhere with the ticklers is sloppy & careless or ignorant.
When Theyre Damp , theyre DAMP . Theres no neccesity to Dampen the Outsides too .

Though it could warm things up , rather excessively perhaps . If IT catches . :shock:

Not a fan of starting on stands. PARTICULARLY the SIDESTAND . at all .

lawman said:

I got the bike started yesterday after about 30 kicks.
It never used to backfire but now it constantly backfire when throttling off. Should this clear itself eventually?

Frank

Click to expand...

I cannot recall more than 1 kick to start. 30 is crazy.

Check the exhaust nuts are tight at the head and crossover pipe if you have one. This is a common cause of backfire.

dennisgb said:

Oh yeah an electrical interlock...but what if it fails? Don't like to think there is a way to shut off the oil supply...

Click to expand...

If it fails, it won't run. Easily defeated by switching wires at the ign switch though. But then you really have to be certain the valve is open.

But how many times has anyone heard of one of those 40A automotive relays failing? Probably less times than people have forgotten to turn on the valve with no interlock.

I would rather not have it, but it seems to prevent a lot of oil from getting outside the bike for some reason while sitting. An added benefit for me. It's not for everyone.

Thanks for your condolences about wet sumping. Our controlling body recently brought in a rule that oil lines must be secured with proper fittings i.e. no hose clips. So it all gets that much harder.

My mk3 850 is one kick, all weather, no fuss about getting over comp or in some special position. Just one good boot after tickling the carbs full, throttle opened up a little, maybe 1/8 th to 1/2, doesnt really seem to matter.
After a four year layup with old gas (stabilizer in) it took three kicks.
14 year old Boyer ignition.
As others have mentioned, if the battery voltage is a little below 12, the bike might pop and kickback, but will not start, although when this did happen (charging problem) I did not try more than 8 or so kicks, then hooked up the battery charger for a bit.
With full battery, one kick does it every time.

Glen

"remove both spark plugs and have your assistant hold them against the head with the leads connect while you kick the motor through with the ignition on in your dark garage"

I wouldn't do this if you have an electronic ignition.

Snorton74 said:

"remove both spark plugs and have your assistant hold them against the head with the leads connect while you kick the motor through with the ignition on in your dark garage"

I wouldn't do this if you have an electronic ignition.

Click to expand...

Why not? :?:

Other makes Owners Manual warns that shocks from Electronic Ignitions can be FATAL.

Apart from that, if the plug isn't grounded and can't spark, apparently it can burn out the electronics gizzards....

This gets into the ohms value the ignition system is designed to see=tolerate. More ohms mean higher voltage before jumps the gap and at some point will jump back inside the brain box if resistance too high such as no grounded-earthed plug gap. Its usually fine to just lay connected plugs on head w/o clamp force to kick over to test. In 20' F temps I no longer expect it to stay runing the first few time it fires over a few seconds but keeping at it warms jugs enough to keep fuel vaporized, ugh and wet sump drag sucked out.

Getting all hysterical , carbs damp , ign on , if it doesnt fire up clean bump starting it in 2nd downhill , it might not be quite right .