Sprocket removal help

I have read every post I can find here. I have tried a homemade puller. That didn't work. I bought a new puller. I have tapped it and rapped it.
I have the factory manual along with the Clymers and the Haynes. They all explain it the same. It just wont budge.

I am attaching a picture to see if that gives a clue. I think I may be missing something obvious.

All the manuals state that the taper needs to be 'broken'. It shows hitting the sprocket with a soft drift. I have tried that but did not hit it very hard.

My procedure is:
Screw in the two side bolts about 5-10 turns and make sure they are even
Screw down the center bolt until it is tight. I have a spacer between the bolt and shaft.
Tap the center bolt and tighten center again. I can do this once or twice then it just does not want to go anymore.

Should there be pop, when it disengages or is it just slowly supposed to come off?

Should I use heat and/or penetrating oil?

Thanks.

jon

I presume you are talking about the front drive side crank pulley, you need to whack the centre bolt of the puller quite hard to break the taper, it will come off in one go with a bit of a bang. If it's really stubborn leave it in tension overnight and try again in the morning. heat will probably also help but don't overdo it.

It can take a fair bit of pressure. You are better off to tighten it down to high tension and hit it once, than to keep banging on it.

Don't use penetrating oil. They can be very hard to get off. As others say, plenty of tension on puller & some impact should shock it off. Once when I was having difficulty removing one I used heat & then a blunt cold chisel that would fit between the rows of teeth on sprocket to give a sharp shock to the side if the pulley. If you try that make sure you can't damage the teeth on sprocket. When it comes off it will make a loud crack & be very loose suddenly.

When you put it back on make sure there is no oil on either shaft or inside taper of sprocket to avoid a hydraulic lock which would give you even more trouble getting it off in future. Clean & dry is what you need.

Ian

Thanks for the quick responses. I have been pussy footin' around.

She'll get my wrath tonight. :twisted:

drones76 said:

I have been pussy footin' around.

Click to expand...

An alternative method, as demonstrated by Mick Hemmings in his NOC engine restoration DVD, is to tighten the central extractor bolt as much as possible, then use the two smaller extractor bolts, tightening them by equal amounts to pull the sprocket off its taper.

Heat helps if it's really stuck.

Yes get the puller as tight as possible all three bolts, make sure you use a heavy hammer, not just a small engineers one, something with some weight behind it, hit very hard ! If still no luck use heat, but not raw flame, get a high wattage heat gun , heat and cool several times around the centre boss of the sprocket ,then try the puller/hit combo again
Mike

Thanks all. I have been home for no more than 10 minutes. The puller has been on and loaded all day and that may have had something to do with it. I put the heat gun on it for about 2 minutes and gave it a couple hits. This time with feeling. The third shot, it went slack. And she slides right off.

Dyno Dave seal has been ordered and the clutch plates are going to get a good cleaning.

Should the steel clutch plates be roughed up and if so, what is the proper way to do it?

Thanks again.

jon

Just clean them with petrol (gasoline) or celulose thinners. Wipe them off with tissue. No need to rough plates up, just make sure they are flat.

Do also make sure that the bolts are plumb in 2 directions as it's easy to get one side off center and you're then not pulling straight on the sprocket.

Well I pussy footed around with a couple of ballpeen hammers with no results and finally had enough and tightened the hell out of the puller and then wacked it one time with a 4pd club and it popped right off . You are right they can seem to be welded into place.

A ball peen hammer is not really the correct hammer to use here as it could slip off the bolt end and cause damage during the strike. Plus even a bigger one has not enough weight behind it for momentum. I use a short handle 5 lb. sledge. Perfect.