o0norton0o
FULL MEMBER
- Joined
- Apr 2015
- Messages
- 2,306
Yesterday, I removed the current dampers out of my forks. That set had 40lb/in springs and used 2.5wt silkolene RSF. I swapped those dampers for a set with 50lb/in springs and used 5wt Silkolene this time. The 50lb/in springs are .92kg/mm which is pretty much what Racetech recommends for my weight (I'm 220lbs) After I made the swap, I rode around a bit afterward, so I got a fresh comparison. The 50lb/in springs are stiffer than I prefer. Sure, the steering is very precise, but it feels like a spec for a race bike, not a road bike.
Today, I undid yesterdays work and went back to the 40lb/in springs and added the 5wt silkolene instead of the 2.5wt. It's still crisp enough handling to ride switchbacks aggressively for my amateur level of risk and it's not completely stiff. I have 45lb/in springs coming soon for a new set that I made 2 weeks ago out of stainless tubes and suzuki 3 port valves. My friend's set is 45lb/in springs and he likes them, so maybe 45lb/in is the best compromise of road comfort and race track performance,... but that is yet to be tested..
I was wondering if any of the Norton racers here know their bike's spring rate. It will probably reflect your body weight and the bike's weight too, but be stiffer than a spring you would use if your bike was used for public roads... Racetech's spring calculator seems off to me. The spring they spec is usable, but not very forgiving. I've come up with excuses to explain Racetech's calculator result and still want to go with the softer spring... like, The interstate tank moves my weight backward so the spring has more leverage with my mass further back. If I used my roadster tank and seat, the 50lb/in might feel softer.
The other thing is that in Race tech's suspension bible, it says that the actual spring rate with the best traction is not where the rider feels it the most. In regards to spring rate, best actual traction occurs earlier than the best feel of good traction,.... meaning that you actually get better traction if you knock a few lbs off of what feels like best traction...
I feel like I'm going to be done with this pretty soon.. I just wonder what spring rates norton race bikes are using?? anyone??
Today, I undid yesterdays work and went back to the 40lb/in springs and added the 5wt silkolene instead of the 2.5wt. It's still crisp enough handling to ride switchbacks aggressively for my amateur level of risk and it's not completely stiff. I have 45lb/in springs coming soon for a new set that I made 2 weeks ago out of stainless tubes and suzuki 3 port valves. My friend's set is 45lb/in springs and he likes them, so maybe 45lb/in is the best compromise of road comfort and race track performance,... but that is yet to be tested..
I was wondering if any of the Norton racers here know their bike's spring rate. It will probably reflect your body weight and the bike's weight too, but be stiffer than a spring you would use if your bike was used for public roads... Racetech's spring calculator seems off to me. The spring they spec is usable, but not very forgiving. I've come up with excuses to explain Racetech's calculator result and still want to go with the softer spring... like, The interstate tank moves my weight backward so the spring has more leverage with my mass further back. If I used my roadster tank and seat, the 50lb/in might feel softer.
The other thing is that in Race tech's suspension bible, it says that the actual spring rate with the best traction is not where the rider feels it the most. In regards to spring rate, best actual traction occurs earlier than the best feel of good traction,.... meaning that you actually get better traction if you knock a few lbs off of what feels like best traction...
I feel like I'm going to be done with this pretty soon.. I just wonder what spring rates norton race bikes are using?? anyone??
