splined gearchange lever ie rearset

Hi

Does anyone have a source for a (alloy) gearchange lever? That is, as used in rearsets? I only need splined part for my race bikes. In fact I would like them to be slightly longer than the Dunstall type.

Thanks Chris

I think Clubman Racing will sell parts. When the hole in mine wallowed out I replaced it with a stock shift lever that had been twisted badly by its previous owner in a crash. I cut it off, drilled a hole in it, etc.

I also replaced the clevises with rose joints, which reduced the slop in the linkage.

Chris,
Standard 850 Mk.111 gearlever is splined alloy.
sam

RGM Motors sells parts and pieces including the splined shifting arm for the rear sets. Here is the link to the rear sets and components page:

http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/dept/rearsets-components_d01171.htm

Hi Sam

I have a MK3 lever but dont want to carve it up.
Peter Thanks for the link Have e mailed RGM wondered if there was another supplier (maybe a longer item)
Thanks though Chris

Racer Kenny Cummings in NYC uSA has hi end rear sets and various levers so ping him too to expand planet wide resources.

I have a MK III shift lever that is broken off at the end that could be used to fab something up. Splines appear OK. If interested, PM me your address and you can have it for postage.

Hi Danno

Thanks. Family visiting Florida in Feb I will get the address & pm you. Thanks.

Hobot Thanks, thought about that for a moment & looked up Minovation Engineering.
http://www.minnovationracing.co.uk/prod ... spx?id=222

Thanks Chris

Chris, I got the RGM one, it works fine.

I have since seen that Raysons Exhausts have made some for Nortons and Triumphs - they look better!

Give them a call 07951071622

Hi gtiller

Yep, they are the Unity Equipe ones. I believe he is the grandson? related to the company? I will give him a call.

Thanks Chris

Chris - you can make a splined lever if you have a workshop, some thick (e.g 15 mm) alloy plate and a spare splined gearshift stub.



A hole is bored in the plate the same ID as the base of the splines as measured with a calipers. If you have a strong vice, you can press the shaft through the alloy several times, working it in and out, to create the internal splines. The internal splines are not as pretty as a works item but if you are careful, it will work. This lever was milled but you can shape it with a hacksaw and file and polish it up.

This one has lasted three seasons and is still firm.

This way, you can make it to the length that you require and to any angle. The Norton levers are canted outwards too much and can cause ground clearance problems when cornering on the track.

Hi Dave

My friend John did that with his sprint bike bored the hole heated up the alloy & pushed the splines through in a vice.
I will give that a go.

Your looks great.

Chris

Chris said:

Hi Dave

My friend John did that with his sprint bike bored the hole heated up the alloy & pushed the splines through in a vice.
I will give that a go.

Your looks great.

Chris

Click to expand...

Yes, a bit of heat helps. One just has to be careful. Sometimes the hot ally 'seizes' on the splines and you have to pick out the bits in the grooves before working the stub back through, if you see what I mean. Not too much working back and forth, because you want the lever to be a firmish tap fit on the gearshift stub. The AMC splines are not that deep and you want as much engagement as possible. And not too much heat because you can end up with a blob of ally on the bench! Then you slit the end for the pinch bolt, ideally with a thin slitting saw in a mill but if not, a nice straight cut with a hacksaw.