Speedo Cable Question

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Tornado

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Just received a new Speedo cable (an Andover packaged part from a local supplier). The inner wound-wire seems somewhat stiff (but quite smooth) to rotated by fingers in the outer sleeve. As if some heavy grease has been used. Is this just for storage/corrosion prevention and needs to be cleaned/re-lubed with oil or lighter grease or just use it as is?
 
I just fitted a tacho cable from Andover Norton. It came with a slip of paper in the bag, headed "speedo and tacho cables". It advised, the cables are not lubricated, remove and grease before use.
 
One of my customers also purchased a speedo cable from A/N, read the same note about lubrication, but couldn't the inner drive cable to come out of the sheath. He was close to my shop so I invited him to bring it in.

I figured that he may be trying to pull it out from the speedo drive end, not noticing the crimped on collar that is use to set the length of drive cable that limits the amount inner cable allowed to inter the speedo.

I couldn't get it to separate either and didn't want to blunt an exchange with A/N. I have been working on Brit bikes for over 50 years, what 'am I doing wrong?

Best.
 
Just a followup, my new cable was pre-greased, but with some stiff type. I went ahead and thoroughly cleaned with brake parts cleaner, re-coated with white lithium spray grease. Amazing different of freedom to turn by fingers, even if partially coiled. Also found the inner will just slide out by gravity alone it I hold it vertical. Was not doing than prior.
Hoping this will finally solve my bouncing needle. Previous cable flange had become un-crimped at the clock end from the outer sleeve and basically slide off a little, making less of the inner insert into clock. I'd attempted to reposition and squeeze it to hold, but not convinced it was right. Now to test ride.
 
Just a followup, my new cable was pre-greased, but with some stiff type. I went ahead and thoroughly cleaned with brake parts cleaner, re-coated with white lithium spray grease. Amazing different of freedom to turn by fingers, even if partially coiled. Also found the inner will just slide out by gravity alone it I hold it vertical. Was not doing than prior.
Hoping this will finally solve my bouncing needle. Previous cable flange had become un-crimped at the clock end from the outer sleeve and basically slide off a little, making less of the inner insert into clock. I'd attempted to reposition and squeeze it to hold, but not convinced it was right. Now to test ride.
Welp new cable took the +/-10mph oscillation out, infact it took all needle movement out entirely. Bike only goes 10mph now, all gears, all rpms ;-(

Need to do some checking, it was fit with the brass ferrule at the clock end and it showed 0.5" of inner end protruding past the sleeve into clock. I did fit drive end first and confirmed wheel rotation turned the inner cable at clock end. So i'm suspecting my clock has too deep a recess or perhaps its been wallowed out. Will try a power drill on drive end.
 
My understanding for the speedo cable is that if you slide the knurled nut that attaches to the clock all the way up, the cable end should be about flush with the top of the nut. If it’s not, the cable has not been inserted far enough into the wheel speedo gearbox.
I also do not use any grease on the clock end of the cable for about 12” for fear of getting grease inside the clock and maybe damaging it.
 
I meant to follow up earlier.

I always pull the inner so that, new or used, I can clean and lubricate. The speedo cable I originally posted about came out of an AN bag. and wouldn't separate. I tried two different ways to facilitate separate inner from outer, 1) a somewhat aggressive pull from the drive end, 2) spin it with a variable speed electric drill with a degree push/pull, but no separation.

To cut to the chase: I discovered that both ends of the inner ends have crimped collars. I had another cable, same issue. Did AN bag up a bunch of the wrong cables? are these cables meant for a different marque/model ?

Anyone know what going on?

Best.
 
Welp new cable took the +/-10mph oscillation out, infact it took all needle movement out entirely. Bike only goes 10mph now, all gears, all rpms ;-(

Need to do some checking, it was fit with the brass ferrule at the clock end and it showed 0.5" of inner end protruding past the sleeve into clock. I did fit drive end first and confirmed wheel rotation turned the inner cable at clock end. So i'm suspecting my clock has too deep a recess or perhaps its been wallowed out. Will try a power drill on drive end.
Remember to spin your drill counter clockwise if you are connected to the speedo.
 
Welp new cable took the +/-10mph oscillation out, infact it took all needle movement out entirely. Bike only goes 10mph now, all gears, all rpms ;-(

Need to do some checking, it was fit with the brass ferrule at the clock end and it showed 0.5" of inner end protruding past the sleeve into clock. I did fit drive end first and confirmed wheel rotation turned the inner cable at clock end. So i'm suspecting my clock has too deep a recess or perhaps its been wallowed out. Will try a power drill on drive end.
I had a similar result. The cable was not entering the speedometer drive far enough causing intermittent engagement. I found a small nylon spacer about 3/16' long in my R/C airplane stuff. Placed the spacer on the inner cable and problem solved.
 
The question stands: How do you, can you separate a speedo cable that has spacers/collets crimped to both ends?

OR

Do you just leave it and focus on something else?

Best.
 
The question stands: How do you, can you separate a speedo cable that has spacers/collets crimped to both ends?

OR

Do you just leave it and focus on something else?

Best.
Last speedo cable for my Mk3 from AN, I queried re: Lubrication prior to use. Their reply was it wasn't necessary...
 
Last speedo cable for my Mk3 from AN, I queried re: Lubrication prior to use. Their reply was it wasn't necessary...

Thanks for providing me with what I have been skating around, but couldn't admit to myself, it is the only conclusion one could come to. For me, in any event, maintenance is part of a Zen like experience.

Best.
 
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