Some oil questions

I plan to mount a spin on type filter base on my 71 Roadster as well as a reed valve for the breather.
Querstion 1-can the filter base be mounted with the engine in place, or is it better done while engine is on bench? If it can be done with engine in, anyone have measurements for drilling holes in the r/s cradle plate? I'm guessing at least that part of it will definately be easier on the bench.
Question 2-What are the ramifications of using a reed valve with the older style breather mounted on the left front of the case? I've seen some threads here that mention a possible problem if the bike wet sumps?
Thanks

MikeG said:

anyone have measurements for drilling holes in the r/s cradle plate?

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http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/techtalk13.htm

The holes can easily be drilled in the cradle with everything together. I did it. Just be careful putting the bolts in, the base is aluminum and easily cross threaded and stripped. Make sure they go in right by hand before using a socket on them. RGM has a real good price on them, even with shipping to US.

I'm told the reed valve is not very effective with the timed breather. I just use mine as is. I've got the leaking down to nearly nil, but I put a catch bottle on the oil tank breather line and took it out of the air filter. I also soldered shut the chain oiler. Since I put a valve on the feed line to the timing cover, the leaking has really decreased and I don't worry about sumping any more. I used to ride it without even knowing about wet sumping and it was fine. It just may smoke when you start up unless you use it every day.

Dave
69S

Dave-"feed line valve" , as in shutoff between oil tank and pump?

Yes.



I'm working on an ignition cut off so I can't forget it. You can see my catch bottle too. Mind you, I've got the old central oil tank.

Dave
69S

I did mine with swing arm and all mounted but almost didn't get the holes right as very poor access to aim drill and worse to get the holes marked correctly. I made template then positioned that on outside of cradle eyeballing/feeling filter mount cleared stuff and set pleasing level-ish. I needed washers between filter and cradle to allow oil canister not to rub. Very tedious to thread the fine thread bolts in especially if holes dia. close to bolt dia. and very slightly mis drilled in position or square to cradle. I don't use the hose clamp trap but have had filter back off and spray tyre till squirrel sense let me discover in time not to crash or seize.
Don't expect much from standard filter elements but to keep big stuff from clogging passages as they past the wear size particles like wind through a screen.
Mainly adds some oil volume and some cooling and lowers CoG a tad.

hobot said:

I did mine with swing arm and all mounted but almost didn't get the holes right as very poor access to aim drill and worse to get the holes marked correctly. I made template then positioned that on outside of cradle eyeballing/feeling filter mount cleared stuff and set pleasing level-ish. I needed washers between filter and cradle to allow oil canister not to rub. Very tedious to thread the fine thread bolts in especially if holes dia. close to bolt dia. and very slightly mis drilled in position or square to cradle. I don't use the hose clamp trap but have had filter back off and spray tyre till squirrel sense let me discover in time not to crash or seize.
Don't expect much from standard filter elements but to keep big stuff from clogging passages as they past the wear size particles like wind through a screen.
Mainly adds some oil volume and some cooling and lowers CoG a tad.

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:shock: :roll:

Yes concours its a bit unsettling finding out the facts of adding oil fliters to anything.

hobot said:

Yes concours its a bit unsettling finding out the facts of adding oil fliters to anything.

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Dawn breaks over Marblehead :lol:

Hobot said:

I don't use the hose clamp trap but have had filter back off and spray tyre

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just guessing, but isn't that what the hose clamp is supposed to stop happening?

can't imagine why one would make a conscious decision to not use it

hobot said:

... I needed washers between filter and cradle to allow oil canister not to rub. Very tedious to thread the fine thread bolts in especially if holes dia. close to bolt dia. and very slightly mis drilled in position or square to cradle. ...

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For the MK3 filter setup there is a hose-clamp/retainer plate that functions as a spacer between cradle and filter housing so the filter doesn't rub.

Also, recently had the filter housing off to replace hoses. While I didn't mike the holes in the cradle, I would guess they are 5/16 while the bolts are 1/4. Certainly enough to move the mount around a good bit before tightening (with tab washer). I know because I initially remounted it up high and tight toward the swing arm -- had to loosen and reposition as it was so tight that the rolled edge of the filter was rubbing the swing arm as bike sat on center stand.

That's interesting the bolts in my RGM filter are 5/16" UNF. I remember because when I stripped one, I had to get a helicoil kit.

Dave
69S

Aw I made the holes same as bolt size so it was more touchy on alignment than real mechanics might do it and closer quarters than others d/t clearing the rear link in Peel. Trixie came with one installed. The hose clamp is a bother and w/o it there is more chance to come loose, so I just nip up a bit tighter after my lesion and never had em come lose again on my Combats, my mower or my cars and trucks, but hey your call after my warning shot. After seeing sludge still accumulating with a filter I looked up their actual filtering function to see its mainly a cup more oil, a bit more cooling and a slight lowering of CoG to get protection of clogged passages but little in the particle wear department. Most wear protection comes from the sludge trap and oil tank settling or leaving em sit in museums. Real wear particle protection is gotten by very fine bypass filter that only get a portion of oil flow per pass to protect engine oil pressure.