Hi There,I gave up on mine.
I'll be asking for help with it at the N.Y. Rally next season.
Agreed.It's a PITA and you will probably use your entire stock of swear words (and possibly come up with some new ones) before it's done. BUT, FastEd is right, the gauges work well once the calibration (@^%X!!!) is complete.
Mine misted up, and so I removed it and left it for several days (with the fitting for the wires unscrewed) in a sealed box with some silica gel sachets. Replaced on bike and probably a little better but still mists up, but clears after half an hour or so as it did before.Got mine pretty close, reading 5 or 6 high and to be honest I've lost the will to correct it. I guess reading a little high is no bat thing. Both gauges work very well, and brings a smile to my face every time I see them go through their techy boot up every time I turn it on.
They do mist up a bit in the damp though.
Terry
Glad my Chronometric still works!Glad I've gone for the Legendary GPS version
They do that for authenticity...Mine misted up...
The original stock Smith's are circumference based as well, as they are gear driven off the wheel rotation. So, they would be prone to the same errors for lower tire profile and lean angle differences over distances.I have a bicycle-type speedometer that works on tyre circumference, 100% exact on straight roads.
But when riding in the mountains, and compare distances with my friend's satnavs, (GPS) we see a considerable difference in distance covered.
Reason: on twisty roads, a tyre based speedo is no longer correct, but exaggerates quite a bit.
( depending on lean angle..)
I have a bicycle-type speedometer that works on tyre circumference, 100% exact on straight roads.
But when riding in the mountains, and compare distances with my friend's satnavs, (GPS) we see a considerable difference in distance covered.
Reason: on twisty roads, a tyre based speedo is no longer correct, but exaggerates quite a bit.
( depending on lean angle..)