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Single to Dual Amal Setup

Discussion in 'Norton Commando Motorcycles (Classic)' started by Tornado, May 22, 2019.

  1. Tornado

    Tornado VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
    I'm finally moving over to two carbs to see what I've been missing. Using the oem 932s that the bike came with, but renewed jets, needles, seals.

    One bowl banjo is metal and seals well with gaskets. Other is plastic and I'm unsure if gasket needed between banjo and bowl, as I do have the plastic screen filter there also.

    Got the choke blanking screws to eliminate choke cabling.
    I'm following Bushman tuning guide for initial settings.

    Wish me luck!
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2019
    Nater_Potater likes this.
  2. baz

    baz VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    May 26, 2010
    Good luck with it
    Make sure any tuning you do is only on a fully warmed up engine
    And if you a using a one into two cable setup I would cable tie (zip tie) the splitter box to the frame
    If you have balance gauges use them
    If not use two rods etc
    The most critical point with balancing those carbs is the transition from idle stops to cable off the twist grip as you lift the slides
     
  3. Tornado

    Tornado VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
    Thx. No balance gauges. I do have a Colortune I might try out one day.

    One into two cable splitter with plastic junction box,,, all new pieces.
     
  4. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Metal banjos have one (usually red) fibre washer between the banjo and the bolt head. The banjo filter is the other seal.
    [​IMG]
    (The other red fibre washer often included in rebuild kits is for alcohol fuel where the plastic banjo filter isn't used)

    Plastic banjos don't require either fibre washer and why fibre washers aren't normally listed in the parts books.
     
  5. Tornado

    Tornado VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
    Thx.

    My gasket kits came with both red and a green large seals. To clarify, the green goes on the bowl drain screw (plastic on my carbs) and the small red goes on metal banjo bolt, nothing for banjo (both metal and plastic types) to bowl if I have the plastic filters there?
     
  6. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Correct, as some Amal gasket kits include the red 14/175 'alcohol' washer, seen in the link below (inside the float bowl gasket).

    https://www.classicbritishspares.co...it-622-208-626-928-930-932-triumph-bsa-norton
     
  7. Tornado

    Tornado VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
    Will be interesting to see how performance and mileage changes
     
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  8. Nater_Potater

    Nater_Potater VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2013
    'Funny coincidence; I'm going the same route. After running for a few years with a single Mikuni, I'm also curious to how well it'll run with new slides in the old 932 bodies. I originally swapped because of decaying idle stability issues, but, with new tight (hopefully) slides and the Pazon Altair ignition, I'm ready to take the plunge. Keep us posted, please!
     
  9. Tornado

    Tornado VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
    Did you fit the harder anodized slides from Wassel or the Premiers? ThouGht about doing so as eurojam has the Wassel evolution slides at $22 USD each. That about same as standard amal slide price. Did you renew all jets and needles? Found my bike idled bad, stalling off idle until I replaced needle jet and needle while on single setup. The duals will have fresh jets/needles for good measure.
     
  10. cliffa

    cliffa

    Joined:
    May 26, 2013
    Tornado likes this.
  11. Tornado

    Tornado VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
    The gantry is a likely future upgrade for me!
     
  12. Tornado

    Tornado VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
    Dual amals are mounted. What a pain doing the Allen bolts. I had manifold already on carbs first. Found only a 7mm wobble Allen key would work as proper 1/4" key I have is not wobble type. I think a shorter/ground down key might also work. Since I'd already fitted cables, then learned splitter had to come off to pass short cables through the headsteady brackets. Splitter ends up just rearward of front tank mount flanges.
    Suggestions for grip cable routing?
     
  13. gortnipper

    gortnipper VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2013
    Grouund down key is normal approach.

    I run my cable on L side and then around the front of the headstock.

    Made the same mistake with the splitter first time around way back when... :D
     
    MexicoMike likes this.
  14. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Only one should be difficult.


    It's a Commando special tool, but note the original 'bolts' were 5/16" Whitworth and take a 7/32" Allen key.

    If yours take 1/4" then they are UNC replacements.

    https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/sho...-9869-special-length-to-suit-inlet-manifolds-



    I personally wouldn't have routed the throttle (or choke) cables through the head steady.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2019
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  15. Fullauto

    Fullauto VIP MEMBER

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    Apr 13, 2009
    Did you win second prize in a raffle?
     
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  16. Tornado

    Tornado VIP MEMBER

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    Dec 5, 2017
    Huh?
     
  17. Tornado

    Tornado VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
    OK new issue:

    With grip to splitter adjuster piece fully undone save for half a turn and the carb top adjusters fully unwound, I'm getting a good 3/8" slack with grip fully rotated to throttle closed position. This means rotating roughly 20 to 30 degrees before any tension on cables. Are my cables wrong? My supplier is usually good with these details. What are correct dimensions so I can confirm?
     
  18. gortnipper

    gortnipper VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2013
    Doesnt sound right. That said, my new a couple years ago Venhill throttle cable was a bit more shy on its length than I would have liked, and is almost fully out.
     
  19. gortnipper

    gortnipper VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2013
    Shave a 1/4" on every sleeve length and in a couple hundred cables you get one more manufactured free!
     
  20. texasSlick

    texasSlick VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2013
    Sounds like you need to shorten up the cable by moving one of the nipples, either at the splitter, or at the throttle.

    I would rest each slide in turn, on the throttle stop screw, then while holding a finger on the slide to prevent it moving, adjust the carb adjuster until you get barely perceptible play when you push and tug on the cable sheath at the carb end. If this requires turning the adjuster fully out of the carb top, then the carb to splitter cable needs shortening.

    After getting the excessive play out of both carb to splitter cables, then work your way back to the throttle.

    Slick
     

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