Simple Job.....

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Cowboy Don

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My 71 Roadster arrived last week and I spent the day having it inspected and registered!
I've worked on my Commando for a total of 1 hour and I think I've already made a big mistake.
It's been in transport from Canada for a few months so I took Commoz's advice on getting her going since sitting for a while. The advice was to fill the around 8 ounce of oil in the hole where the overhead oil line joins the timing side cover. I tried this but didn't have a tube small enough to get right in there so I took it upon myself to try something different. I thought I could fill the oil by removing the crankcase blanking plate so I proceeded to remove the three bolts. The two bolts at the rear came out with no problems, but the bolt at the front loosened a bit and then would go no further, nor will it tighten back up. I assume there is a nut behind there instead of threading into the case itself, which is why I can't completely remove the bolt or tighten it. In the process as well, a bit of the gasket has broken off and fallen inside.
Now I'm afraid I will have to remove the timing cover completely to rectify this problem. My question is, with a Boyer ignition fitted, what is the method of doing this?
And I was really hoping to get out for a ride today!

Thanks Guys,

Donald
 
Cowboy Don said:
The advice was to fill the around 8 ounce of oil in the hole where the overhead oil line joins the timing side cover. I tried this but didn't have a tube small enough to get right in there so I took it upon myself to try something different. I thought I could fill the oil by removing the crankcase blanking plate so I proceeded to remove the three bolts.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, adding oil through the blanking plate opening wouldn't prime the oil gallery.



Cowboy Don said:
Now I'm afraid I will have to remove the timing cover completely to rectify this problem. My question is, with a Boyer ignition fitted, what is the method of doing this?
Click to expand...

Remove the Boyer pickup (Boyer stator plate). Remove the 1/4" (26 tpi) retaining bolt from the Boyer rotor, screw a 5/16" SAE fine bolt into the rotor by about 6 turns, then tap the head of the bolt with a hammer "up-down-left-right" a few times-which should release the rotor from the camshaft taper.

The Boyer rotor and stator plate will have to be retimed when they are refitted: http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT000 ... 00017_.pdf
 
Thanks LAB!
Filling the timing chest was just to give some lubrication to the bottom end before startup. I hadn't got around to priming the pump yet.
I may just get the proper puller tool if that's the case, but if not availabe, will certainly give your method a try.

A question for all the Aussies out there. Where do you order your Norton parts from locally (as in anywhere in Oz)? Obviously I'm gonna need some gaskets right away. And perhaps the puller as well.
 
Cowboy Don said:
Filling the timing chest was just to give some lubrication to the bottom end before startup.
Click to expand...

The easiest way to do it is to remove the exhaust rocker covers and add the oil there, as that will also help to give the cam lobes and followers/tappets some initial lubrication before start-up.
 
Cowboy Don said:
Thanks LAB!
Filling the timing chest was just to give some lubrication to the bottom end before startup. I hadn't got around to priming the pump yet.
I may just get the proper puller tool if that's the case, but if not availabe, will certainly give your method a try.

A question for all the Aussies out there. Where do you order your Norton parts from locally (as in anywhere in Oz)? Obviously I'm gonna need some gaskets right away. And perhaps the puller as well.
Click to expand...
Where abouts in Australia are you Cowboy Don
 
G'day Cowboy,
Most capitol cities have spares merchants, but I have found that buying direct from England to be nearly as quick but certainly cheaper.
http://www.rgmmotors.co.uk are fantastic. (7 days to your door) and I believe Mick Hemmings is the same. They will both send you a nice, priced, catalogue.
Brisbane or Sydney to Adelaide... 5 Days, and was quoted roughly double the price.
I have bought a few small items off Brandon at Steadfast m/c in USA and a clutch rod seal kit from Old Brit spares in USA, both exc service. (10 days)
If you'r in a hurry and close to Trojan spares or Classic british spares... It's up to you.
If your in S.A... Murrays britbikes are good and K & M have a bit.
That's my experience, others may say different.
AC.
P.S. Keep an eye on e bay for bits and pieces from Trojan and Classic spares, sometimes they go fair.
 
L.A.B. said:
It's all part of the Norton learning curve! :)
Click to expand...

He he, sad thing is, I owned a Commando before, back in Toronto. However, a 10 year gap, filled with nothing but Jap bikes, tends to dull the Norton intuition. Having said that, there's always something new to learn, eh! At least now I will have experience with setting the timing!

AussieCombat & Kanaka,

I live in the Adelaide area. I'll give K&M & Murray's a ring tomorrow. I don't expect them to have much on hand though, but hopefully, with only needing a couple gaskets at the moment, I'll get lucky.
 
Cowboy Don said:
A question for all the Aussies out there. Where do you order your Norton parts from locally (as in anywhere in Oz)? Obviously I'm gonna need some gaskets right away. And perhaps the puller as well.
Click to expand...

Don, to prime the bottom end prior to starting, first check if the sump is full of oil. If the bike had oil in it for some time, it will seep through the oil pump and eventually wet sump. So if you look in the tank and think it needs a big top, beware when the motor starts the return pumps back in and you'll have an overfull and very messy result. Next, to prime a Norton that's been void of oil, the simple thing is to remove one exhaust rocker cover and pour a cup of oil in there. That does 2 things. 1 it lubes the camshaft and followers and 2 it primes the sump for the return. Next pull the spark plugs and just kick the motor over 20 or 30 times. Trust me, oil is being drawn in and pushed into the crank and rocked feed line by the pump. Next un-nip the rocker feed banjo on the right side of the head and have a rag handy. Fit the spark plugs and start the bike. Oil will very quickly issue from the banjo joint. That means its pumping fine. Nip up the nut. Next check the oil return in the tank, it will take less than a minute for the return to charge up and bubble into the tank.

I get good parts and expertise from CYCLECRAFT ENGINEERING in Perth, (08) 9361 4619 and BJ's BIKES in Brisbane (07) 3391 7322.

Mick
 
ML said:
Cowboy Don said:
A question for all the Aussies out there. Where do you order your Norton parts from locally (as in anywhere in Oz)? Obviously I'm gonna need some gaskets right away. And perhaps the puller as well.
Click to expand...

Don, to prime the bottom end prior to starting, first check if the sump is full of oil. If the bike had oil in it for some time, it will seep through the oil pump and eventually wet sump. So if you look in the tank and think it needs a big top, beware when the motor starts the return pumps back in and you'll have an overfull and very messy result. Next, to prime a Norton that's been void of oil, the simple thing is to remove one exhaust rocker cover and pour a cup of oil in there. That does 2 things. 1 it lubes the camshaft and followers and 2 it primes the sump for the return. Next pull the spark plugs and just kick the motor over 20 or 30 times. Trust me, oil is being drawn in and pushed into the crank and rocked feed line by the pump. Next un-nip the rocker feed banjo on the right side of the head and have a rag handy. Fit the spark plugs and start the bike. Oil will very quickly issue from the banjo joint. That means its pumping fine. Nip up the nut. Next check the oil return in the tank, it will take less than a minute for the return to charge up and bubble into the tank.

I get good parts and expertise from CYCLECRAFT ENGINEERING in Perth, (08) 9361 4619 and BJ's BIKES in Brisbane (07) 3391 7322.

PS - a word of caution. Avoid TROJAN in Sydney. He knows bugger all about Commandos and just flogs suspect non genuine parts.

Mick
Click to expand...
 
Don't want to get into a blu here, but the two items that I bought from Trojan, ( carby gasket set and countershaft sprocket ) were both in
Andover Norton packageing.
AC.
 
Regardless of how ya pre oil, ya are in for another Norton lesion, ain't no short cuts and expect things to go wrong. You must remove TS cover to tight up blank plate fastener and replace the gasket, which is needed to match the oil pump nipple for sealing, they come in two thickness and must be paired right, either combo works.
Vendors should know which to get, if not check back.

TS cover replacement needs the cam shaft oil seal protector bullet or tends to nick and weep more.

While in there check cam chain tension by turning engine though at least twice.
 
I dropped by K&M's today and they had everything I needed in stock! Good bunch of guys, a 'real' bike shop.
 
Good. Yeah ones a Kiwi, in case you didn't notice, and ones an Irishman. Good guys. Can be a bit protective.
Murray is sraight accross the road. He is one of the originals... K &... M . Now removed.
Let me know if you need a rebore.
AC.
P.S. I think the Trispark man ( here in Adelaide) is Canadian....
 
AC & Cowboy,

Would have to agree about Murray, ex K&M. I bought my 850 Roadster MKIII from K&M while Murray was still with them (2005), and found him to be a top bloke, honest and helpful. Very passionate about SA- he gave me a tour around the K&M store and told me how to 'kick a Vic'! :mrgreen:

It's good to hear he's still going in his own right and good luck to him. Said MKIII (imported from the US by K&M) is now happily back in the old Dart and I still have the 2006 Rego sticker. Before I re imported it, I had a good ride around the Snowy Mountains and that was what sold me on the Norton. Beaut Roads & Happy Days! :D
 
Yep. Honest injun. The Manx # 913 in my photos of Mac Park, Seniors day, is Murrays'. He gets her going allright.
The Vics kick us a bit lately.
AC.
 
Got my Boyer off using the 5/16 bolt method, thanks guys.
Now, I know I can probably protect the seal with some tape, but just to be on the safe side, any of you Adelaide boys got a seal protector I can borrow this weekend? I've ordered one for the future anyway, but it won't be here until next week or so.
If I can figure out the timing (THAT will be the challenge), I may get to ride this weekend!
 
Cowboy Don said:
A question for all the Aussies out there. Where do you order your Norton parts from locally (as in anywhere in Oz)?
Click to expand...
ML said:
...BJ's BIKES in Brisbane (07) 3391 7322.Mick
Click to expand...
Second that. Great guys, usually got whatever I need. Good to deal with.
 
Lake Maquarie, N.S.W. , Building a smokestack out of black rock coal. Nortons were exported to Brit -commonwealth countrys (in general). I have partyed with you blokes in Bali , Indonesia ,Hard Rock Cafe. Bungy cord Fosters beer running 40 ft. stretching for a cold can held by guy on barstool. Also tipped back a few with your sorry lot in Thailand . Watch out , I may visit , and am a fisherman , all - for protected G.B.reefs. Cheers. Peter.
 
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