should i ditch the boyer pt 2 !

well thanks for the last set of replies
ive repaired all the wiring and a new ignition switch arrived today
it now actually starts and runs of both cylinders

however it will only run when the choke is on, with the choke off it dies almost straight away even if you hold the revs about 3000 then choke off , it fades out( choke on is with the control level level with the handlebars and a slacker cable) i was caught out b4 with this as its opposite to anything ive had b4

im assuming its going to be carbs off again and possibly the idle and pilot holes rechecking and cleaning out
just in case it might be something else ? b4 i take them off as i only just put them back on !

thanks
matt

Yes if you have Amal mark ones a slack cable = choke on. Amal mark two's and Mikuni with enrichment circuits not chokes are opposite tight cable = choke on.
You need to remove the air screws and use a #78 drill bit glued on a stick way deep in the carburetor’s pilot jet.
Than re set the air screw to one and one half tuns from seatted. Than report back.

Amal motto = clear the pilot jets.
The 1.5 turns out of air screw as optimal only applies if the pilot jet clear and timing and plugs good, and, float level correct. If I know the first two are ok then I diddle float level to get best idle at 1.5 turns out, or keep looking for why I can't/don't.
Then I go back and diddle the timing to slight advanced state of best idle stability
as gives me a bit nicer off idle response. I set idle down to 600 for in shed listening but at least 900 when hitting the road with lights on.