Sex (and rubber iso boots)

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robs ss

robs ss

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I was wondering if the rubber boots over the isolatics are really necessary for a bike used for recreational use?

What??? I was just doing what @Matt Spencer does - just without the magazine pages.
 
In the NOC notes it refers to the rubber boots as holding water and grit increasing the decay. If you go stainless on all the spacers etc then it makes sense to go bootless and clean with WD40 to remove any dirt sticking to the surfaces.
 
kommando said:
In the NOC notes it refers to the rubber boots as holding water and grit increasing the decay. If you go stainless on all the spacers etc then it makes sense to go bootless and clean with WD40 to remove any dirt sticking to the surfaces.
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Yep I think that is a good way to go, eh @Mk111guy ?
 
Okay - so @Mk111guy has cut his rubber boots off and we'll give feedback on any change in behaviour (the bike that is!!)
Cheers
 
Fast Eddie said:
No boots and dry film PTFE spray for me.

Goes on wet so it cleans and penetrates. Solvents evaporate leaving a dry lubricating film that doesn’t attract dirt and grit etc.
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A couple of weeks ago I started using PTFE spray (Nulon) on the pivots of my centrestand, sidestand and kickstart (look that up on the internet Nigel!).
Results are good and these joints are (obviously) staying a lot cleaner and staying free in their movement.
Worth a try!
 
Ok two questions :-
What dry film ptfe lube do you use please Nigel?
I managed to damage the lhs rear boot on mine this week checking the adjustment on the (stainless) Mick Hemmings adjustable verniers whilst fitting an RGM Taylor head steady. However as there's still some of the original mild steel components in this set up not sure going bootless is advisable, can anyone more familiar with these comment please, they were fitted by a previous owner.?
P.s.The rubber tipped grub screws used on the Mick Hemmings collars had both loosened, front and rear, was running at 30 thou clearance!!
 
I think it depends on whether or not you do much rain riding or riding on roads that are awash. Also whether or not the bike stabled in a warm dry place or not. Front one still on mine the rear ones not. No issues either ones but bike lives a pampered life.
The Mick H adjuster grubs have a tiny spot of nylon on the tip or at least mine did. This doesn't really work. I added another grub, sans tip, so use two, and it seems to hold.
There was discussion on this some time ago I think a groove was cut into the adjuster but look for the thread my memory probably is faulty as to the exact cure.
 
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isolastic query

Hi, i'm a new commando owner (1973 mk 5) and novice mechanic trying to acquire the skills to maintain my machine as a regular user. My current issue is with the rear isolastic and my vague understanding of the mechanics of the thing. The bike appears to have had vernier type isolastic adjusters...
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Onder said:
I think it depends on whether or not you do much rain riding or riding on roads that are awash. Also whether or not the bike stabled in a warm dry place or not. Front one still on mine the rear ones not. No issues either ones but bike lives a pampered life.
The Mick H adjuster grubs have a tiny spot of nylon on the tip or at least mine did. This doesn't really work. I added another grub, sans tip, so use two, and it seems to hold.
There was discussion on this some time ago I think a groove was cut into the adjuster but look for the thread my memory probably is faulty as to the exact cure.
Click to expand...
I think the grub screw is supposed to bear on the unthreaded portion of the Hemmings adjusters, but I agree those nylon tipped screws are not really up to it and it's difficult to see which hole they are in.


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Replacement engine install - which rear ISO?

Received an engine to put in my ‘72 Combat last night. The front ISO is stand non-vernier and appears to replaced by the PO. The rear however is obviously older if not original. Looking for recommendations on a rear ISO. I was planning on just replacing the rubbers on the exhaust and head...
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Thanks for the responses Onder and Cliff, I had read some of those other threads on the Hemmings grub screws which I'll double up on and monitor with the boots left folded back for now. I suspect longer term I'll keep the boots on the front due to potential for water spraying up but perhaps leave off the rear? I've smeared everything with silicon grease for now anyway. I suspect over 90 percent of all classic bikes lead a pampered life, mine certainly do, but the commando does get used for longer trips with potential for rain.
 
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