seat knob roll pins

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rgrigutis

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anybody tap these holes for a small set screw? seems the roll pin commits you permanently. thanx, rick
 
I bought Stainless Steel knobs and the hole was not drilled right. Unless you have the right equipment, drilling into SS is difficult. Returned the SS and got alloy knobs. They work fine, but I agree that a set screw would be better. I have looked and not seen any. Boy, I hope someone has a source (reasonable).
 
The roll pin acts as a retainer and stop so you don't loose the knob. It's not manditory, only nessessary. A set screw, to be effective, would have to go through as the roll pin does.
 
rgrigutis said:
anybody tap these holes for a small set screw? seems the roll pin commits you permanently. thanx, rick
Click to expand...

seat knob roll pins


I'm wondering if you use the existing holes if you'll get enough purchase on the post. I think to be most secure you would want the set screws at opposite sides and centered.
 
My original knobs have the roll pins removed since before I owned the bike - they have never loosened at all and I don't see a need. But maybe someday I will!

As this exchange between me and a "real" commando owner/rider (many thousands of miles a year) went:

Me: "Do I have to safety wire all the parts on the Commando?"
Him: "No, only the ones you want to keep."
 
MexicoMike said:
My original knobs have the roll pins removed since before I owned the bike - they have never loosened at all and I don't see a need. But maybe someday I will!

As this exchange between me and a "real" commando owner/rider (many thousands of miles a year) went:

Me: "Do I have to safety wire all the parts on the Commando?"
Him: "No, only the ones you want to keep."
Click to expand...

Roll pins aren't to prevent them from loosening as much as a convenience while removing the seat that you don't unscrew them too much.
 
rgrigutis said:
anybody tap these holes for a small set screw? seems the roll pin commits you permanently.
Click to expand...

A 3/32" pin punch and a few taps with a hammer normally has the roll pins out in a few seconds. In fact, it probably takes less time than it would take to undo a screw.

The trick is to leave one end of the pin (or both ends-if the pin is shortened slightly) slightly below the level of the hole, so that the hole can be used as a guide for the punch. If the pin is set level or slightly proud of the hole then it makes it more awkward to initially line up the punch with the pin.
 
I'm using SS knobs & a very old Corbin seat for the time being ( hate it) and it requires the left side knob to be taken off to remove the seat. For this reason I use a small cotter pin on that side. I can pull it all the way out to remove the knob & push it back in as needed.
 
please don't all laugh at once! i only saw/looked for one hole. it makes sense now. for a while i thought it was just another norton/english engineering quirk. guess i can put away my small taps for now. don't get old! i take solace in the old saw; there are no stupid questions. it's hot as hell here and it's definitely not a dry heat. these are the 3/4 change of clothes days.
 
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