running rough
- Thread starter Robb2014
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How much is it , Roughly . / :x
Now , if its EXACTLY between 28 & maybe 31 deg ( say 28 / 30 ) identically on Ea. AND the Valve Clearances are EXACTLY correct , ofr a gnats dick more .
The thing might run exactly right , if theres no spiders / cobwebs in the carbs , and the mice are blown out of the exhaust system .
Repeat after me . Near Enough IS NOT Good Enough . I wiill be PERFECT , anything less is bloody slack . We will leave the casual indifferance to Honda Boys . 8)
see below . YEA . Check fuel taps / flow . Use BOTH on to verify toon . 100 Octane isnt a bad idea . flush clean polish shine . 20 press ups , 6 laps of the block .
Now , if its EXACTLY between 28 & maybe 31 deg ( say 28 / 30 ) identically on Ea. AND the Valve Clearances are EXACTLY correct , ofr a gnats dick more .
The thing might run exactly right , if theres no spiders / cobwebs in the carbs , and the mice are blown out of the exhaust system .
Repeat after me . Near Enough IS NOT Good Enough . I wiill be PERFECT , anything less is bloody slack . We will leave the casual indifferance to Honda Boys . 8)
see below . YEA . Check fuel taps / flow . Use BOTH on to verify toon . 100 Octane isnt a bad idea . flush clean polish shine . 20 press ups , 6 laps of the block .
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So little info. Need more. Plugged pilot jets ? Automatic advance unit dry as a bone ? These would be my initial attempts at rectification. Old battery ? Old plugs ? Old gasolina ?
It looked to be right on 31*. (I've got the Pazon EI) I'm going to check it again tomorrow when I have a friend to help so I don't have to hold the throttle and the timing light while trying to read the scale. I rebuilt the carbs as per Bushman's instructions, squirted all the holes and stuck fine safety wire through them. I haven't checked the valve clearances. Just got the bike running yesterday.Matt Spencer said:How much is it , Roughly . / :x
Now , if its EXACTLY between 28 & maybe 31 deg ( say 28 / 30 ) identically on Ea. AND the Valve Clearances are EXACTLY correct , ofr a gnats dick more .
The thing might run exactly right , if theres no spiders / cobwebs in the carbs , and the mice are blown out of the exhaust system .
Repeat after me . Near Enough IS NOT Good Enough . I wiill be PERFECT , anything less is bloody slack . We will leave the casual indifferance to Honda Boys . 8)
see below . YEA . Check fuel taps / flow . Use BOTH on to verify toon . 100 Octane isnt a bad idea . flush clean polish shine . 20 press ups , 6 laps of the block .
Torontonian said:
Like I mentioned, I just installed a Pazon EI. I did notice a couple of drops of oil at the bottom of the points compartment when I first opened it up, but it's dry as a bone now... cover is still off. I've got a new battery showing 12.69 V., plugs are new, and the gas is a month old ... of which I think I'll throw some seafoam in tomorrow and run it around the block a few times. Maybe this thing just needs the cobs blown out of it.
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Very Good .
Not stored semi in the weather & all rusted & obnoxious ? .
CHECKING the clearances is pretty basic . For Ex turn till ones fully depressed & tryn slide a 8 thou feeler guage thru the other ( between Adj. / Valve tip )
Proceedures same for Int. but .006 ( 6 thou ) . If the plugs are out its not as awkward turning it . Or STOPING it Turning .
easiest on mainstand ( or crate , rear wheel unencumbered ) Throw in 2nd gear and nudge motor to precise position with rear wheel . Nudge. Nudge .
If theyre near enough & not tight , leave untill youve heat cycled it a few times to let things normalise / relax / seat till you set Em .
If its grabbing the feeler its tight . Pops & whistles internally might indicate this . If it sounds smooth but rough :? Blow the cobwebs out .
Be considerate & in sync though . Like driveing a Tractor , SMOOTH , subtle & with elan . Not Agro . Hope the front brakes o.k. :lol:
IF the local mice had moved in the pipes & peed on the valve seats , it could be a bother . Corrosion . Therefore a thou extra clearance , or 1 1/2 , initially , lets the valves seat more forcefully , hammering the seats clean .
Conversly , to tight by say 2 thou . & goobers on the seats could let gas whistle through, once its started it cts a track .This is the classic ' burnt valve ',
rather than one thats been fryed & pretzled from to lean for to long and to hot .the old excessive temperature tightening the clearances by thermal wotsit .
IF the monsters have taken over and its got no compression , a Leak Down / compressor to the plug hole , lets you hear it all whistling out the holes in the
wireing loom from the conrods .
Not stored semi in the weather & all rusted & obnoxious ? .
CHECKING the clearances is pretty basic . For Ex turn till ones fully depressed & tryn slide a 8 thou feeler guage thru the other ( between Adj. / Valve tip )
Proceedures same for Int. but .006 ( 6 thou ) . If the plugs are out its not as awkward turning it . Or STOPING it Turning .
easiest on mainstand ( or crate , rear wheel unencumbered ) Throw in 2nd gear and nudge motor to precise position with rear wheel . Nudge. Nudge .
If theyre near enough & not tight , leave untill youve heat cycled it a few times to let things normalise / relax / seat till you set Em .
If its grabbing the feeler its tight . Pops & whistles internally might indicate this . If it sounds smooth but rough :? Blow the cobwebs out .
Be considerate & in sync though . Like driveing a Tractor , SMOOTH , subtle & with elan . Not Agro . Hope the front brakes o.k. :lol:
IF the local mice had moved in the pipes & peed on the valve seats , it could be a bother . Corrosion . Therefore a thou extra clearance , or 1 1/2 , initially , lets the valves seat more forcefully , hammering the seats clean .
Conversly , to tight by say 2 thou . & goobers on the seats could let gas whistle through, once its started it cts a track .This is the classic ' burnt valve ',
rather than one thats been fryed & pretzled from to lean for to long and to hot .the old excessive temperature tightening the clearances by thermal wotsit .
IF the monsters have taken over and its got no compression , a Leak Down / compressor to the plug hole , lets you hear it all whistling out the holes in the
wireing loom from the conrods .
Matt Spencer said:Very Good .
Not stored semi in the weather & all rusted & obnoxious ? .
CHECKING the clearances is pretty basic . For Ex turn till ones fully depressed & tryn slide a 8 thou feeler guage thru the other ( between Adj. / Valve tip )
Proceedures same for Int. but .006 ( 6 thou ) . If the plugs are out its not as awkward turning it . Or STOPING it Turning .
easiest on mainstand ( or crate , rear wheel unencumbered ) Throw in 2nd gear and nudge motor to precise position with rear wheel . Nudge. Nudge .
If theyre near enough & not tight , leave untill youve heat cycled it a few times to let things normalise / relax / seat till you set Em .
If its grabbing the feeler its tight . Pops & whistles internally might indicate this . If it sounds smooth but rough :? Blow the cobwebs out .
Be considerate & in sync though . Like driveing a Tractor , SMOOTH , subtle & with elan . Not Agro . Hope the front brakes o.k. :lol:
IF the local mice had moved in the pipes & peed on the valve seats , it could be a bother . Corrosion . Therefore a thou extra clearance , or 1 1/2 , initially , lets the valves seat more forcefully , hammering the seats clean .
Conversly , to tight by say 2 thou . & goobers on the seats could let gas whistle through, once its started it cts a track .This is the classic ' burnt valve ',
rather than one thats been fryed & pretzled from to lean for to long and to hot .the old excessive temperature tightening the clearances by thermal wotsit .
IF the monsters have taken over and its got no compression , a Leak Down / compressor to the plug hole , lets you hear it all whistling out the holes in the
wireing loom from the conrods .
I should have been more specific Matt, everything on this bike has been restored over the past few months... frame powder coated, rebuilt brake system, wheels, new Pazon EI, new exhaust and pipes etc. The motor had good compression before I started tearing everything apart, so that's the only thing I left as is. I'm going to check the timing again with the light this morning, then will throw some Seafoam in the oil and gas and will hopefully be able to put a few gentle miles on it. I'll let you all know how that goes.
pvisseriii said:
Yes... carbs were way out of sync. Got them balls on with a vacuum gage today. Then timed it with the light, and took it for a ride. I'm just about there. Runs pretty damn good for the most part. Takes off strong, no back firing... bikes faster than hell. Just have a little valve chatter and a little popping when I back off the throttle. I want to get the valves set before I start driving around the neighborhood, but what's the possible causes for the popping?
Also... I don't think I've ever had a bike that was so easy to over rev. Most would start to level off before red line. The power curve on this seems like it starts to kick in harder about 6500 rpm or so... almost like one of the old 500 and 750 Kaws. Anyway... this is the first time I've been able to wind it out a little and I'm impressed.
DogT
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I noticed some popping on mine too early on after the rebuild, but as I got the carbs adjusted, it seems to have stopped, even decelerating down hill. Run the pilot screws in so they're a bit rich and the idle gets a bit 'lumpy' and it may cure the popping. If your slides are old, new anodized ones may help, or sleeving too. Adjust the valve lash a few times early on, it won't hurt.
Yeah, they run strong, no? If I weren't so old, it'd make me feel studish. I've had people tell me that the rpm run up on the Norton is really fast, but then I'm used to it. Best thing is the broad band it runs through, instead of all at the top end.
Dave
69S
Yeah, they run strong, no? If I weren't so old, it'd make me feel studish. I've had people tell me that the rpm run up on the Norton is really fast, but then I'm used to it. Best thing is the broad band it runs through, instead of all at the top end.
Dave
69S
DogT said:
Right... comparing it to the old 2 cycle Kaws that were total pigs till they hit 6 or 7 rpm then took off like a rocket, these bikes pull hard all the way through and then take off even harder at 6500. I can see why you all are in love with your Commandos.
DogT
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I had a friend in the early 70's that had the K1 or K3, whatever, 750 and we traded bikes once. The ricer was really a blast at 6-7K, but outside that nada. But the friend still didn't get it. It's just your point of view. My experience came from a single 500 BSA B33 and had torque like the Norton right from idle. I've never gotten over the feeling. It's kind of like experiencing sex without the condom, you just get into it, and right now.
Dave
69S
Dave
69S
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