Rubber block for wiring (2010)

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Neil

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Jun 3, 2005
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Hi there,

Been having a few wiring troubles on the Commando and I'm fairly sure they stem back to this rubber block - as you can see, it's not in the best of shape.

Rubber block for wiring (2010)


I've been told by a well known supplier in the UK that these rubber blocks have been discontinued. Can I purchase a similar item elsewhere or do you need to 'make one up' using smaller blocks, so to speak.

Thanks,

Neil
 
Neil,
It could just be that the metal sleeve and bullets are corroded. If you can prise the bullets out, try gently cleaning them with fine emery paper as well as the sleeves inside the rubber block. I'm fairly sure a number of British bike and car supplier will have these or equivalent still in stock. Also try this web site, they keep heaps of this sort of stuff - www.vinwire.com.au

Mick
 
I had issues with mine. The sleeve for the white wire cracked and things would short out. Replaced with NOS I had found on Ebay. These things are out there. I've been tempted top pick another up just to have it. (I can sometimes be one of "those".) If you open it up and nothing is cracked. it might indeed be just corrosion.
 
Neil,
mine looked nasty too. Actually worse than yours and the bike still ran.
It fell apart in my hands when handled.
I found mine on Ebay as well. British Wiring has them as Swoosh said.
I cleaned all wire terminals with steel wool, dielectric greased em and popped em in w/ needle nose plyers.
You don't need a specialty tool to insert if you grab the bullet and press till it snaps in.
Just don't crimp the wire by accident. I than zip tied it to the underside of the frame.
You have 10 new ports to plug into on both sides.
I even got ride of the 3 way connector for the white wires.
They went right into the spare ports on the wiring block.
Just do color to color match and the jobs done.
Marshal
 
I finally took a knife to mine and most of the metal sleeves inside the block were cracked. I made up my own connectors using the tinned copper grounding sleeve off some Frostex heat tape and shrink tubing. Others have just soldered the ends together, but for reasons that would only make sense to me, I wanted a flexible connection that I could get apart with a razor knife. After seeing the condition of the block once I tore it apart, I wouldnt try to salvage one.
 
Does anyone have a good technique for pulling the bullets out of the connectors without causing damage to the bullet or wire? I have had success with some by pulling, wiggling, wd40, but others are acting pretty stubborn.
 
I think you’re going to have to accept them breaking. Once one is out, you might be able to push the other without damage.

The best thing I’d advise is to use electric grease when re-assembling so at least it’s easier next time you disassemble.
 
Use a heat gun to soften the old hard rubber first. Then they usually will come right out.

Look at the rubber blocks when replacing because some are individual circuits and some have all the connections bussed together. I have helped out two Norton owners so far where they or a well-meaning friend thought they were doing the bike a favor and completely screwed up the wiring.
 
I have a 74 commando mk2a. I want to replace the 10 way block under the gas tank. Understanding this part is not available id like to replace with smaller (5way, 3way, 2way, etc connectors) as appropriate. Two questions 1)has anyone figured out which wires from the wiring diagram go thru that block? 2) is there a us source that sells the snap connectors? Im sure i can figure out #1 but just looking to save some time if somebody has already done it.
 
I replaced the old single block with 5 twins, I then found they fitted easier under the tank than the original as they flex more and take up less space, I have 2 cable ties around them to keep them together.
 
I picked up the correct 10-way (5 double common) connector from http://shop.bassettsinc.com/

Note they list two of these, one under their motorcycle section and the other under car section....After confirming with their saleman that both were identical, guess which one was nearly 2x the price ($13 vs $23) for no obvious reason? For bonus points, guess which I ordered ;-)
 
Thank you all. Im still trying to relate the words in your answers to the workshop elect diagram. Ie The elect diagram shows the "w" as a multi common (in from key switch, out to rh handle bar switch, lh handle bar switch, brake pressure switch, and ignition indicator light). So to me that means 5 wire bullets coming in to a common connector. There doesnt appear to be to be a need for another multi common. What is meant by 10 way 5 double common? 5 twins?
 
I just renewed all the connectors under the tank. The schematic is partially helpful but does not show which lines are running through the multi block vs singles or triples. It also does not any of the three or four red, positive earth lines at all as earth lines are just depicted as convention ground symbols.

Best strategy I found was to pay close attention to wire colours. I believe there was only one line that change colour passing through a connector and it is depicted in the schematic. Also watch out for Light green vs green lines. Hard to tell apart in poor lighting.
Note schematic shows several GW, GY lines being connected away from multi connector when in reality these converge on it. Basically any line colour with more than one or two connections can or should use the multi. I believe I found four colours having three or four lines to bring together. R, GW, GY, W. Might be more or different as doing this from my failing memory.

When four lines found, one coming from front or headlight side tended to have more length so it could pass around the multi and enter the connector from the rear side.
 
Tornado said:
Best strategy I found was to pay close attention to wire colours. I believe there was only one line that change colour passing through a connector and it is depicted in the schematic.
Click to expand...

My Atlas has one wire that changed color passing thru a connector. I believe that was a draftsman's error which got into production. It was eventually corrected. Perhaps the wire you found was also a draftsman's error.

Proper wiring convention dictates that a wire color, or label, should NOT change passing thru a connector. In a similar manner, two wires connected at the same point should ALWAYS have the same color or label.

Slick
 
Here's the schematic of multi block for the 72 up model Commandos:
Rubber block for wiring (2010)


If you look at WY entering from the left and trace it to right you see it becomes WU. This is correct on wiring of my bike.
 
Saber said:
What is meant by 10 way 5 double common? 5 twins?
Click to expand...

Often referred to as 10-way, it's simply five 'double common' connectors (below) in one block with no internal connections so don't overthink it.

As Tornado mentioned, the direction indicator green/white [GW] and green/red [GR] from the handlbar switch cluster connect to the block and not as drawn, therefore, GW and GR each need a 'double common' connector.
The diagram does show five white into one double common which I'm not sure about (my Mk3's wiring being different so I can't check it).
As mentioned, WY from the kill switch would normally connect to WU for the original points ignition, however, if the bike has electronic ignition then the EI 'box' negative (positive earth/ground) can be connected directly to WY. WU (and WP) not used.
If the wires are stll connected to the old block then transfer them to the new block keeping the colour coded wires in the same positions.

Rubber block for wiring (2010)
 
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