Local shop has closed down. In amongst their BSA stuff is an RR T gearbox. I've heard of the RR T2 gearbox but not this. Any ideas? And what's it worth?
The "T" is for Torrington needle bearing on the blind end of the layshaft instead of the standard bushing. The "T2" has that plus a needle bearing in the sleeve gear on the main-shaft. Both are rare. If its complete, its worth at least a few hundred dollars. I suspect the number of people seeking out an RR gearbox is getting smaller though.
Really?? We had the option of one or two needle bearings?
Also, he is 90 , used to race gold stars for years and was a friend of Dick Mann. In his shop on the bottom shelf are two DBD cylinders. Both are completely destroyed with a slot a few inches long torn through the cylinder. I will suppose the rod broke at the small end and did the damage. I wonder what it sounded like? Too bad the cases aren't there, too.
I have a 1960 BSA B33. I swaped out a STD gearbox for an ASCT gearbox because an ASCT gearbox in great condition was available and relatively inexpensive. My STD gearbox was leaking and it needed rebuilding. My motor certainly also needs to be freshened up as I can turn it over by hand wi...
For anyone building a race bike - they need 3 things - a decent frame, a decent front brake, and a close ratio gearbox. An RRT2 gear box is close ratio, but has a very high first gear which makes clutch starts in races more difficult. However the alternatives are - fit a low first gear into the RRT2 gearbox, or buy a $6000 TTI gearbox. If I was building a BSA Gold Star, I would like the RRT2 gearbox, for $1000. A 4-speed close ratio gear cluster for a Norton gear box probably costs about $900. (Australian dollars). Many people seem to believe the motor is most important, however it is usually the easy part.
Many years ago, one of my mates was boarding the IOM ferry. There was a guy trying to ride a Gold Star aboard which had the RRT2 gearbox - it took a big leap because of the high first gear.
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