Every time I change my rear tire I keep telling myself that I need to get a new rim stop. Well I want to order me one and I dont know the correct size. Anyone have this info? Rear wheel is the stock 19 inch, stock width. BTW I am loving my AM26 that was fitted last time.
Rim stop size
- Thread starter jjett
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By rim stop do you mean rim lock? If you tell your supplier the width of the rim they can provide the correct one.
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I just took mine out. Not needed for a street bike they tell me, and it sure throws the wheel way out of balance.
OTOH, on my Bultaco trials bike I run about 5 psi in the tires for competition. That bike has two rim clamps on the rear and one on the front. I like to run a little more air pressure than that in my Norton tires though. :wink:
Debby
OTOH, on my Bultaco trials bike I run about 5 psi in the tires for competition. That bike has two rim clamps on the rear and one on the front. I like to run a little more air pressure than that in my Norton tires though. :wink:
Debby
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I agree with Debby and always took mine out at the first tire/tube change. However if you want to have rim locks installed they are classified by rim width on the "WM" scale, which is stamped onto the rim, look for WM3 on the rear and WM2 or WM3 on the front.
Rim locks are largely vistigal, going back to when motorcycle manufactures only made one type of machine, currently refrred to as "standards". These standards were morphed into dirt bikes, cafe racers and touring machines, by their owners. While I was in college I worked at the local Triumph dealership; we had a customer that converted a TR6 into an enduro bike and ran 10 PSI F/R, he had two rim locks in each wheel; he always brought his bike in for tire changes, I, being the "apprentice", got to do the changes: I HATE RIM LOCKS!
RS
Rim locks are largely vistigal, going back to when motorcycle manufactures only made one type of machine, currently refrred to as "standards". These standards were morphed into dirt bikes, cafe racers and touring machines, by their owners. While I was in college I worked at the local Triumph dealership; we had a customer that converted a TR6 into an enduro bike and ran 10 PSI F/R, he had two rim locks in each wheel; he always brought his bike in for tire changes, I, being the "apprentice", got to do the changes: I HATE RIM LOCKS!
RS
Greetings,
I'll agree with the last three posters, the rim locks are un-needed, in fact on my bike I took those damn things out and threw them away.
However, you probably don't want to leave an open hole in your rim, so, a quick trip to the hardware store for a 5/16 carriage bolt (head ground slightly for better fit) presto, you have the look, but, not the pain in the arse.
GB
I'll agree with the last three posters, the rim locks are un-needed, in fact on my bike I took those damn things out and threw them away.
However, you probably don't want to leave an open hole in your rim, so, a quick trip to the hardware store for a 5/16 carriage bolt (head ground slightly for better fit) presto, you have the look, but, not the pain in the arse.
GB
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RoadScholar said:
Commando rims were always WM2 (1.85" internal) size as standard, front and rear.
My British bikes still have their rim locks ("security bolts"- UK). My T160 Trident has two of them in the rear rim, and I can't say that I've ever experienced any great difficulty when changing tyres on wheels that have rim locks.
Having known George by email and such for a few years now I must say this is the first subject I have seen him display such passion on. If you have actual air in the tire they seem to be usful only to help me pinch a tube, which unlike LAB, I'm pretty darn good at anyway.
I have six bikes and I'm trying to remain a no rim lock household.
I have six bikes and I'm trying to remain a no rim lock household.
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