RGM v. Andover disc rotor

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Onder

Onder

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Anybody have a chance to compare the RGM disc rotor compared to the Andover rotor?
They claim UK made and one is attracted to the 85 pounds v. 150 pounds asking price but
you have to wonder about the quality here. Fear 'UK Made' may be lump sourced offshore,
machining done in country thereby qualifying for the Union Flag Label.
There is no free lunch but one can always hope for a 'good deal'.
Hard to believe.
Comments?
 
i would bet that the AN and RGM rotors both come from the same supply source

There is a renowned UK manufacturer of brake discs both Triumph & Norton and they do supply most of the ( trade ) dealers direct
with rotors , lots of the AN product range is bought in from outside manufacturers and packed as genuine parts often at a premium price point
AN have no manufacturing capacity in house to make their own rotors
 
Yes I realize that AN simply contracts all its parts or buys what is on offer. Just wasnt sure where the RGM bits actually came from.
With AN you are counting on a certain quality assurance level and good service. With RGM you are looking for a better price and add on or modified stuff.
I have no beef with either.
 
Andover Norton brake discs are our own product, made from our own castings cast exclusively for us on our own tooling, finished by firms who do this job only for us.

I know where the other brake (British made) discs come from. Even before I owned Andover Norton I made a point of purchasing for my shop, my own bikes, and retailing, only Andover Norton brake discs. Make what you want of that.

Joe Seifert/Andover Norton

P.S. the fact that we don't own a foundry, or a forge, or a machine shop, chromium plating plant, paint shop etc does not mean we don't get stuff made exclusively for our stores, often using our own tooling. Quite naturally we don't have bearings made exclusively, or lightbulbs etc, i.e. items that are generally available and were norm parts even in Commando production times. However, we, don't sell, say, no-name bearings etc.

Ask any modern car manufacturer what percentage of any car today is made inside their own factories. Making everything in house is not how the automotive industry works. Or how Norton ever worked, even in the 1930s.
 
Heh heh heh.

Its near top of the page billing in their News section.
Along with a nice pick of Mick and Angie (sp ?).
 
Yes I know the auto companies are and always were big outsourcers.
...of course Henry Ford was the opposite!
 
Is the andover disc a 12" like the rgm? If so has anyone got a link? I can't find them on the andover website.
 
petejohno said:
Is the andover disc a 12" like the rgm? If so has anyone got a link? I can't find them on the andover website.
Click to expand...

I would assume the AN one is the stock disk and the RGM non-stock.
 
Thanks Dave. I'm about to buy the pretech caliper and just wondering if there are any other 12" discs other than the rgm. Not that I have heard anything bad about the rgm disc. Just like choices.
 
petejohno said:
Thanks Dave. I'm about to buy the pretech caliper and just wondering if there are any other 12" discs other than the rgm. Not that I have heard anything bad about the rgm disc. Just like choices.
Click to expand...

I think the disc that CNW sells in its kits are 12"
 
petejohno said:
Thanks Dave. I'm about to buy the pretech caliper and just wondering if there are any other 12" discs other than the rgm. Not that I have heard anything bad about the rgm disc. Just like choices.
Click to expand...

I don't know if you've already seen this set up, here's mine, Pretech caliper with RGM disc:

RGM v. Andover disc rotor


The RGM disc works OK, although I think it could be lighter. My issue though is, as bought, the pins were too tight and made the disc run out of true, pushing the pads back into the caliper far enough to allow a 'lever back to the bars' situation, not good. I relived them a tiny amount, and now with only just over 1,000 miles, they have worn considerably and rattle like crazy. I think a (accurately machined) hard anodized centre would be better, as on the custom made ISR ones in my other post.
 
Thanks Fast Eddie, It was your previous post that sold me on the pretech. I already have a new RGM disc I acquired but will check out the alternatives.
Regards Johno
 
Just to get back to where we started on discs here, a bit more information.
I have a standard stock disc that was ground and lightened. It works well enough and doesnt pulse at the bars but
here is the problem: at any speed there is a clicking as the disc goes round obviously a high spot. I dialed it on the
bike and Im out 8 thou in one area. If you watch carefully you can see the pads showing daylight between them and
the rotor and then closing up. The pads are clicking as they go loose.
The specs say "ground within 5 thou." 3 thou isnt that much but going through the village you would think Im wearing
a cowbell. At speed it is still happening but you dont notice due to wind and road noise.

RGM offers stock sized iron undrilled and lightened rotors as does AN. Better brake systems nice but a lot of dosh and
Im a low speed rider. So staying with a stock rotor.
 
Onder said:
Just to get back to where we started on discs here, a bit more information.
I have a standard stock disc that was ground and lightened. It works well enough and doesnt pulse at the bars but
here is the problem: at any speed there is a clicking as the disc goes round obviously a high spot. I dialed it on the
bike and Im out 8 thou in one area. If you watch carefully you can see the pads showing daylight between them and
the rotor and then closing up. The pads are clicking as they go loose.
The specs say "ground within 5 thou." 3 thou isnt that much but going through the village you would think Im wearing
a cowbell. At speed it is still happening but you dont notice due to wind and road noise.

RGM offers stock sized iron undrilled and lightened rotors as does AN. Better brake systems nice but a lot of dosh and
Im a low speed rider. So staying with a stock rotor.
Click to expand...

I suggest that you take the rotor off and insure that it's on the hub correctly. A tiny bit of swarf or something between the hub and brake disk can throw it off.
 
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