Removing bezels from instrument clocks
- Thread starter solbero
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Great post.
I currently have one apart.
What kind of paint should be used for the inside white?
I made the mistake to not strip out the paint so I can't suggest any white paint based on my use.
But I think you want the most reflective white you can get.
Do note that the factory white paint inside is not sprayed on the whole inside. On mine, they blocked it from
the area closest to the light bulb position. I guess this kept the light even around the visible area of the dial through the glass.
I have installed LED bulbs that are far brighter and I can see the gauge properly at nightime!
Dennis
But I think you want the most reflective white you can get.
Do note that the factory white paint inside is not sprayed on the whole inside. On mine, they blocked it from
the area closest to the light bulb position. I guess this kept the light even around the visible area of the dial through the glass.
I have installed LED bulbs that are far brighter and I can see the gauge properly at nightime!
Dennis
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- Oct 28, 2009
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- 1,482
I don't think many Japanese gauges were built to easily come apart for maintenance. They just built a better product to begin with, and attached it to a motorcycle that didn't suffer from strong vibration.
I thought I would give an update. I replaced the bezels on both instrument clocks yesterday. I used the Wassel bezel replacements sold by RGM Norton as replacements.
To distribute the pressure when compressing the seals I created a 3D printed holder to fit the top of the clocks.
The bezels were quite stiff (the originals were much softer) and I was unable to crimp it using a socket extension as recommended by others. I ended up using a Knipex Pliers Wrench to bend and crimp the bezel. The pliers wrench had smooth, paralell jaws which created a nice, tight crimp after two passes.
To distribute the pressure when compressing the seals I created a 3D printed holder to fit the top of the clocks.
The bezels were quite stiff (the originals were much softer) and I was unable to crimp it using a socket extension as recommended by others. I ended up using a Knipex Pliers Wrench to bend and crimp the bezel. The pliers wrench had smooth, paralell jaws which created a nice, tight crimp after two passes.
concours
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The original bezels would have been batch annealed after the stamping operation, prior to plating.I thought I would give an update. I replaced the bezels on both instrument clocks yesterday. I used the Wassel bezel replacements sold by RGM Norton as replacements.
To distribute the pressure when compressing the seals I created a 3D printed holder to fit the top of the clocks.
The bezels were quite stiff (the originals were much softer) and I was unable to crimp it using a socket extension as recommended by others. I ended up using a Knipex Pliers Wrench to bend and crimp the bezel. The pliers wrench had smooth, paralell jaws which created a nice, tight crimp after two passes.
baz
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I did that to mine many years agoYou could have taken the opportunity to drill a hole for easy access to the set screw:
I also run my speedo drive off the front wheel with an almost straight cable so there is never any fluctuations on the needle
I strapped my sat nav next to the speedometer and adjusted the screw until it matched the satnav
Good suggestion, I might just do that later. By the way, the three screws spaced around the cable attachment stub, what are they for? I assumed they were adjustment/set screws. But since the set screw is hidden inside, they are probably used for something else.You could have taken the opportunity to drill a hole for easy access to the set screw:
Edit: After a little bit of thinking I realised I have to remove and fit new bezels again to drill the hole. Otherwise swarf will most likely get into the instrument.
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They attach the mechanism to the case.
