Refitting front forks

I'm having some alignment problems refitting the front forks on my 71

The alignment is such that I'm having great difficult refitting the wheel axel.

When Drawing up the fork tubes into the top taper of the triple clamp, how far should up should the tubes come, should they be flush with the top of the triple clamp?

Any other things to think of?

Thanks

Mine appears to be approx. 1/32-ish or 1mm-ish from the top.

Stock dampers can be differant lengths due to where the rod lock nut ends up. this differance "pulls" one side higher..hence the wheel spindle holes are at differant hights.
The lower leg can be pulled up by screwing the top nut further onto the screwed rod, or lowering the higher..depends if there is enough thread left,,,i think you get the picture.

John and Pete,

Many thanks for your replies, I'm fairly sure that it's damper rods. Many thanks for your help

If you un-screw the top nuts , wheel out/in spindle in place, the distance can be checked when the nuts are hovering above the top yolk face, just measure the gaps underneath. un-screw the locknut and make the equalising adjustment.
The Lansdowne are pre-set to within .1 mm/ 4 thou... but even so some differances are still present :?
Depends on the original dimentions /machine allowance's..i personally have measured the slider depth and found variation's...luckly these differance's can be tweeked out via the damper rod /top nut adjustments. Not many consider this..and the result can be a heavy knock ..because one side is taking all the shock.
When both side's "top" out together the Knock is greatly reduced..as its shared. Matcheless had a strong rebound spring that prevented the renowned "NORTON TOP OUT KLONK"
I include a 15mm hydraulic cushin, this produces a smooth arrest to the extension travel.