Reduce unsprung weight

What are the best "reduce unsprung weight" options around for our Commandos that are practical for normal street use? Is there anybody that makes a conversion for the rear drum to a disc? I assume that would be lighter than the OEM drum setup. I see that CNW makes a replacement rear disc setup for the Mark 3 but it doesn't appear they make an actual conversion for earlier bikes.

Alloy rims.

Lighter front disc, e.g. alloy carrier, steel disc.

But what do you actually expect to gain in practical everyday terms?

"But what do you actually expect to gain in practical everyday terms?"

I want my Commando to be able to get around the IOM quicker than my Ducati 996 could do it.




BWA-HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!

OK, OK, seriously, and to be totally honest...it's been quite a while since I have done anything to the Commando and it feels like it's time! I was inspired by Fast Eddies' bike and would like to make some changes BUT keep the bike obviously looking like a Commando, not some sort of marriage. IOW, no Japanese bike forks, etc. So alloy rims/CNW front brake (black), CNW rearset, etc are possible; Mikuni carburetors (for example) are not.

I think I'm going to change the color -to what I'm not sure. It's been a black roadster and currently is a BRG fastback. I like the fastback look so I'll probably keep it as an FB but spray the tank/sidcovers/tailpiece a faster color. I thought about making it a red roadster, like my original 750 was back in the day but I don't think I can deal with the roadster tank capacity nowadays - stopping every 80-90 miles for gas is just too annoying!

There is nothing wrong with any aspect of the bike's operation and I don't expect any noticeable "improvement" by doing anything I am considering but I thought that whatever I do I'd like to start with things that would reduce unsprung weight.

The cNw front brake saves quite a bit. I just fitted a carbon front mudguard which save a surprising amount over stock.

Alloy rims are kinda obvious.

If you’re feeling adventurous, you could try one of the tubeless kits and eliminate the inner tubes.

NYC Norton do a nice looking lightweight rear disc hub conversion, with cush drive, that looks like it would save half a ton.

But, IMHO, if you’re gonna start looking at reducing unsprung weight to improve things, you definitely should also look at significant suspension upgrades too...

Certainly one of my Italian bikes is dressed in the fastest colour , which has always been red ... in fact I was surprised to learn you could buy a new Duc that wasn’t ... of course the choice will be yours but nothing is as fast as red ......
Craig

Don Pender makes an alloy rear hub.
Contact him here at madass140.

Scroll down to to see:
http://www.tritonmotorcycleparts.com/297620484

Unless I'issing something, the total unsprung weight is the wheels and fork bottoms.
So choices are limited.
I switched to alloy rims and a light disc.
The difference in handling and acceleration is incredible.
Just kidding, I can't feel any difference.
I do like the look of flanged alloy rims and the Madass brake is a big improvement in stopping power.
But honestly, five or six pounds saved isn't noticeable.
I've thought about getting rid of the tubes.
Again I doubt it would change much, but at least you wouldn't have tubes to deal with when doing tire changes.

Glen

Someone said 7lbs equal 1hp ... not sure ... over the years I have lost maybe 15lbs off my Commando ... I can’t say I notice any difference in handling or performance with a straight face .... but I do like the look of Maddass flanged alloys etc.
Craig

tomspro said:

Don Pender makes an alloy rear hub.
Contact him here at madass140.

Scroll down to to see:
http://www.tritonmotorcycleparts.com/297620484

Click to expand...

Wow, that hub is really a nice looking piece of kit! Anybody have one? How difficult was it to find an appropriate brake system/mount the rear caliper on the bike? I guess some sort of mounting bracket would have to be fabricated/welded to the swingarm.

I have been thinking about one of those tubeless kits. A friend did an old bike of his using 3M 5200 a couple of years ago and it holds air as well as a real tubeless rim...

Sorry Mike , I stripped my originals and shipped them .... Don performed his magic and sent back with all SS axels including the one piece rear ... flanged alloy rims, SS spokes and nipples ... if nothing else cleaned up the visual a lot ... not positive why but the Lansdowne kit in forks seems much more effective with the lighter wheels , could be just me looking for improvements, though that hadn’t crossed my feeble mind before hand ......
Craig

Don's rear hub is about the same weight as stock. It is the pre MkIII type. You do get a great
trouble free cush but the drum and sprocket is the same weighty iron bit as original.

MexicoMike said:

"But what do you actually expect to gain in practical everyday terms?"

I want my Commando to be able to get around the IOM quicker than my Ducati 996 could do it........

Click to expand...

Easiest way to do that is put another rider on it!

I could recommend some for you! They are heading out this month.

SteveA said:

Alloy rims.

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No. In a recent thread about rims, I documented that there is hardly any weight advantage in selecting alloy rims, unless you choose the super-light racing variety which is hardly suitable for a road bike. Yeah, go-faster items look nice but the reality bites you.

-Knut

Onder said:

Don's rear hub is about the same weight as stock. It is the pre MkIII type. You do get a great trouble free cush but the drum and sprocket is the same weighty iron bit as original.

Click to expand...

Don's custom belt drive should provide a sizeable weight saving though. Hope he will chime in with a weight budget.

-Knut

I remember that our forum member Ludwig made an interesting modification to the rear hub and achieved a considerable reduction in weight.
Can't remember the details, or find the post where this was described.

I think CR500 or similar rear hub (36 spoke)

Ludwig went to a dirt bike entire wheel and hub and brake.
Hard to argue with that approach considering the vast mass of the stock stuff.

The mass of the wheel might affect it's gyroscopic effect which interacts with the castor effect of the steering geometry. It might grab you by the throat - but that's life.

Im pretty sure that Ludwig mentioned this. He doesnt miss much.

mdt-son said:

No. In a recent thread about rims, I documented that there is hardly any weight advantage in selecting alloy rims, unless you choose the super-light racing variety which is hardly suitable for a road bike. Yeah, go-faster items look nice but the reality bites you.

-Knut

Click to expand...

That's not my experience. Having handled stock wheels with tyres fitted and one with a 2.5 inch Morad rim with tyre fitted, there is a significant difference in weight. This is at the same time, putting one down and picking the other up.