Rebuilt Amals.

Hey everyone, just thought I'd show what's happened lately in the Carburettor department.
I couldn't get a real lot of sense out of any of the four 32mm Amals that I own so decided to enquire around Oz
to find a deal on sleeveing them. There were two options which came up several times,
# 1, A completely rebiult, better than new, change over with rebore and custom made slides.... $200.00 ea.
# 2, A rebore and sleeve.... $55.00 ea.
As both of my sets already had new needle jets and float needles plus O ring and gasket kits, and one set has the
Idle jet modification and Stayup floats,I opted for the # 2.
Two sleeved and bored 32mm Amals.



This shows the removeable Idle jet.



The right hand Carb with removeable screw for easy cleaning, if required.



This is how I listen for ballanced Idle, by useing a piece of garden hose. It works for me.





The bike started easily and ran a nice tan plug at idle with the # 25 jets but would not return to an idle
from a cruising speed, instead it would just stall. As the plugs were almost white at 3,000 revs I lowered the needle clip
which solved that problem, but didn't help with the no idle situation so I changed the Idle jet to # 30.
It seems OK in the shed, no flat spot now, but only a road test will tell.
At this stage I would like to think my problems are over...
See for sale... 32mm Amals.
To be cont...

I assume you drilled out the pressed in pilot jets?

swooshdave said:

I assume you drilled out the pressed in pilot jets?

Click to expand...

The PO did.

Failure to return to idle implies too much flow still getting through carbs and/or too advanced initial ignition setting or ignition advance that does not return to retard enough to idle. I greased my old beat up Amals to see if that allowed return to idle before buying anodized slide, it did so i spent some more, as usual just to stay in riding game. Still not ideal fast return to idle so I assume bore wear is still letting some air slip by but its quite adequate idle return to use engine drag instead of brakes only to to not speed up too much down steep loose slopes with sharp bends at the end. What is your air screw turn out amount, if not darn close to 1.5, my next move would be re-set float level.

Yes David, Thank you Peter.
Hob, The engine was running down, no problem, just wouldn't stop running down.
It was as though the Idle wasn't set, but it was.
Here's what I think, this is my opinion.....
When the Idle passage is drilled to a larger size, (for easy cleaning), it lessens the vacumn inside the passage
which alters the fuel pick up from the bowl.
I do know that the engine idled great with the # 25 jets, but just wouldn't hold an Idle when coming down quickly
from high revs. However if you were real carefull, on the slow down, or just puttered around gently, it was almost fine.
But a bit lean, off Idle.
The # 30 jets seem to have fixed it. I think.
Umm,... less vacumn and a bit more volumn.??
When I had the sleeveing done, I almost asked him to cut the Slides at # 2.5 Cutterway instead of # 3.0, which I should have done
because I do think that they are a bit lean just off the idle, probably caused by the K&N filter, I could filed the cutterway if nec.
Praps we'll end up with different tapered needles.?
Now for some mid range trial with the Needle right up.
One thing in particular I must thank the PO for, is the Allen head screws that are fittted to the bowl and carby tops.
They sure make it easy to work on the carbies with out removeing them from the bike.
AC.
Air screw at 1.25 at the moment.

Ohhh, just winds on down and poops out, hm. Trixie Combat is now doing that when I clutch in at hwy speed she dies, but a non issue as starts soon as clutch let out, with awareness of surface I'm on. I put #3.0 slides in thinking to make up for the bore wear leaks. Seems nice and barking responsive over the clapped out 3.5's.

I have 4 groove race needles with steeper tapper though, right now in middle groove and works well enough not to annoy any way I can detect - on entirely sane throttle use so far. On Trixie I'm more concerned with civilized slow low power than maxed out Combat, which only really wakes near red line. If you've a hardened heart like the racers an early big port head Combat really come on cam, like 3rd piston to me after 6800, when it can float front or spin rear right out when leaning some. I've resisted straying from pure factory on Trixie but the allen heads in the carbs are sure temping, especially when away from home to deal with. I found out the hard way only a long stem screw driver can reach the cap screws and only and shorter one the bowl set.

Rocking chair mechanicing almost feels like useful work time, thanx.

Don't hate me but the flat slides that JS Motorsports offers just seems too do away with all of these problems, that being said you gotta love the look of the old amals and curved ribbed manifolds, however it is the 21st Century.......I know, I know, everybody is gonna tell me now to go out and get a new bike, but his flat slide carbies are too cheap, already set up too. Cj

Hey Cj,.... Yeah I know. If I had the cash I'd probably have done it by now.
I'll do it one day and put the Amals in drydock, so I still have a good set to hand on to my son or who ever gets him.
Him being Ed, Ed Norton,...... from the "Honey mooners".
AC.