Rear Wheels on EBay (ends tomorrow!!)

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After taking my front wheel apart, Ive started thinking about the rear. The one on the bike has a huge flat spot, and it will be replaced. Ebay has this one (dunlop just like my front wheel) 120697651421 for sale. Id like to buy it if it is the right fit. My wheel is stamped WM2-19 and MB41, the ebay one is said to be marked WM2-19 as well but the second marking is MB11. What does the difference between MB41 and MB11 mean, if its the lacing pattern then the wheel wont work, but if it means something else and it will work on my '72 cush drive id love to buy it since it is a identical match to my front wheel. He said it is also stamped W1239 but i cant find a stamp similar to that on my front wheel, if thats important.

Thanks.

PS the auction ends tomorrow so anything relevant will be greatly appreciated.
 
Re: Rear Wheels

mattthomas4444 said:
He said it is also stamped W1239 but i cant find a stamp similar to that on my front wheel, if thats important.

It's unlikely to be suitable in my opinion-as think the seller has probably misread W1230 as W1239. Triumph rims usually have the Triumph part number stamped on them, in addition to the Dunlop number, and Triumph part W1230 appears to be a Dunlop MB11 front drum brake rim.

Item 120697651421 has a 2 x 2 dimple pattern, the same as this Triumph MB11 W1230 ebay item: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BSA-Triu ... 0441736627
 
Yes, as I believe MB41is the correct rear rim.

The hub is the early bolt-up brake drum type .
 
Yeah, I have a hub and everything but, I just need a rim. That one is so cheap I don't mind buying everything.

Thanks
 
Matt,
I have a front rim that is serviceable. Same one WM2-19 MB41. Might be a bit more rusty than the one on ebay, but if it doesn't work out for you, you can have mine cheap. Shipping is going to kill us though. I sent one to Kansas from Virginia and it was over $20. Don't know about CAN but I can find out.

Wouldn't surprise me that the price goes way up at the end, those hubs are not cheap and it looks like it comes with the drum.

I bid on an early rear mudguard from that fellow and it went up to $80 including shipping which was way too much for me. I got a new chromed one from OB for $100, but it's for the 71 so it was a bit different.

Dave
69S
 
Dave,

Thanks, that sounds good, I think i may end up getting the wheels re-chromed anyways so as long as yours is in good enough condition to do that im happy. We'll see where the ebay one takes me.
Do you guys have any idea what chroming both rims, the headlight shell, handlebars and maybe a few other small parts may cost? Is it worth it or should i buy new or try to refinish them myself?

Matt
 
If you want new chrome, I would suggest buying new rims already chromed. Probably same price to re-chrome as buy a new one, unless you know someone that does good cheap chrome which is probably not going to happen. I got my new rims from Walridge, they usually have a good sale just before Xmas if you can wait. They were UK made and looked just like the original Dunlops.

Mike knows his Nortons and will sell you the right stuff.

But if you want a serviceable rusty rim, I have one.

Dave
69S
 
mattthomas4444 said:
Do you guys have any idea what chroming both rims, the headlight shell, handlebars and maybe a few other small parts may cost? Is it worth it or should i buy new or try to refinish them myself?

I had a kick start lever rechromed, cost $125 for the three parts (spline thing, pin and lever) (see http://www.pbase.com/jeandr/image/109610129 ) Chrome is EXPENSIVE :(

Jean
 
Matt,

My experience in chroming parts is the same as Jean's and Dave's; it's very expensive and always involves shipping, and I reserve it for parts that are not obtainable new. On my TR3 project, a new front bumper (chrome over copper over steel) was less than my lowest re-chrome bid. If you can't find a rust-free used rim, get a new one. Chroming is a nasty business, and the shops here in the PNW are quickly disappearing (as opposed to the cad and zinc guys, who appear to be thriving) .
 
I had a mudguard (front fender) the 2 stays, and a gas cap done, cost me $300 not including the $20 shipping to him. I think I would only re-chrome items that are no longer available, if they are acceptable to chroming. http://www.execulink.com/~rosst/ will repair nearly anything and probably chrome it too, but I have not used him. I am thinking about sending him my 69 rear mudguard which is no longer available to repair and chrome, or at least repair so I can get it chromed.

Dave
69S
 
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